Used the new dado jig to make my Stickley Inspired Entertainment Center. It worked great. Obviously, I really need a bandsaw. My jigsaw skills are really poor. Jig uses a router bushing and paired bit. The jig edge is a rabbited edge. I had to buy a 3’ clamp to fit the jig. My 2’ was too short and the 4’ was too unwieldy. The proof that it was successful is that my son used it and said it worked. That’s high praise from him.
The last of Ryan’s 3-part video series on constructing a basic face frame cabinet with the parts that he cut out before making the videos. This video shows how to attach the counter-top supports (A.K.A. stretchers, stiffeners, spreaders or whatever you want to call them) as well as general guidance, tips, tricks and information that should help a DIY genius (such as yourself) along the way. More to come; GIT SOME!!
Unlike the masked man of magic, Ryan reveals the highly secret process of constructing a kitchen cabinet. Well, maybe not so secret, but hopefully an easier, clearer and more straight-to-the-point process to follow. This video shows how to attach backs, or backing, to face frame cabinet modules.
This video highlights a method of constructing decorative boxes (A.K.A. Cabinets) for residential application (or wherever). Rich or poor, young or old, cheap or expensive, whatever the application, the basic process is all the same. Individual skill and creativity determines the overall outcome, aesthetics and quality of the construction. Watch more videos, look at pictures, read books and articles and create your own masterpiece(s); it’s not rocket science. The old adage applies, &...
Cut my first dadoes tonight with a real dado blade set. Several years ago, pre Topamax, I bought a wobble blade. It needed an insert so I took my saw model to Sears. They had to order one. It didn’t fit. I figured I’d have to make one. I got busy with other things and never got back to it. Tonight I needed to make some serious dadoes 3/4” wide. I had some salvaged 1/4” hardboard. I roughed out an insert and friction fit it on the ends to hold it securely in ...
Continuing this blog on T-tracks, there is nothing that goes to waist, even the most insignificant piece, at a given moment may turn out to be gold. So, the other day I was looking into some drawers and I found a cut-off piece of t-track that I used on my router table. We all use them and most times we cut them to size to fit our dimension, as they are sold in specific lengths. So I was thinking why did I save that small 20cm long piece?And the same night as I was browsing along the wo...
Why everyone needs at least one Shopsmith & other ramblings #2: (actually reason #1) The dedicated extra tool
I thought it would be easy to find the time to knock out a blog piece every now & then, but I was mistaken. Maybe if I were a faster typist…then again, maybe not. Life (in this case, the holidays & re-building a couple of Shopsmiths…that’s sort of a holiday for me, too) just got in the way. But, Here goes. I’ve been going through in my head exactly how I should approach this, and since it’s been an ever-changing thing, I’m going to keep the form...
Now that the dado in the horizontal piece is complete put it temporarily in place over the vertical piece. The joint should be snug but neither loose or tight. Score the lines for cutting the curves on the vertical piece. You can see here the score lines ready to begin cutting. Repeat all the steps shown in earlier installments of the blog to create a dado in this piece that is 1/2 the depth of the lumber, etc. Here you see both pieces with the waste removed. They are...
After deciding exactly how you want your pieces to intersect carefully mark the location of the intersection points for later reference. Hold or clamp the pieces down firmly (I had to use my other hand to take the picture, but for real held the top piece in place with my other hand). Score a line along the curved edge where the pieces intersect with a utility knife. Don’t try to cut very deeply or you will likely slip and mar the piece. Repeat this process on the other sid...
In this tutorial I’ll be making three redwood wine box displays. Two will be 12” x 12” x 3”, the other will be 10” x 10” x 2 1/4”. These are the two most common sizes I make, the 12” square box will hold ~125 wine corks, where as the 10” version will hold ~80. It doesn’t look like that many will fit in there, but I promise you they will.Before we begin, I want to mention that these tutorials will be available on my photography sit...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1542 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 94 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1567 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 269 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 170 entries