Shaping The TopThe top of the Bench/Stool features a nice deep curve. This not only looks cool, but adds a lot of additional comfort when sitting. I scribe the shape onto both sides of the top piece using my template. Since the top is supposed to be symmetrical on both sides, I prefer to shape only one side of my template. I then flip it over to scribe the profile on the other side. This way there is no possibility of error and the top should be exactly the same on both sides. I also decid...
So after the glue up dried on the larger piece, I clamped up the smaller interior piece giving attention to the fit as I did in the previous glue up of the large interior piece. Here is the piece unclamped. This shows the backside where the template was not seen. Here is the same piece flipped over with part of the template still showing. I used a scraper to remove the worst of the glue on the bottom side so it would sit flat on the bandsaw and then starting cutting out t...
We are now ready to begin sawing out our components. By hot gluing the two boards together this allows us to cut two identical pieces of each part so that they will fit properly. Note that I am only sawing out the interior shapes of the cross at this point. This will allow me to have better control when re-gluing. Here the vertical piece has been cut out. Keep in mind that you must get the best cut possible. Be sure your blade is narrow enough that it can saw the curves without backing up ...
I am working on a project commission that involves some new things I am trying, so thought others might enjoy the journey. The customer wanted a small cross to go in a pastor’s study, but wanted something somewhat contemporary/artistic. First step was to submit several ideas in rough sketch form. http://www.flickr.com/photos/61707624@N00/5199768189/in/set-72157625449931604/! Second step was to refine a drawing based on the one the client preferred. http://www.flickr.com/phot...
I admit it. I am a wood hoarder. My garage has plenty of untapped talent in it. Tables, chairs, shelves, car ramps… Now just the time to do something with it all.One of my earliest gets was a brace that was rejected at the timberframe shop I worked for.I was able to locate a second one and decided it may hold up a vanity top one day. Those sticks on top were cut out of 8x timbers as a screen channel. Those are 1×2ish at varying lengths. Probably my most prized are these cut ...
The last time I left off I still needed to cut the dovetails on the other side of the case. I didn’t photograph that because the process is the same as before. But it took another four or five hours. I did think this was interesting enough to take a photo of though… “stretching” my clamp collection: Leg Joinery The legs are going to protrude up through the top of the case in the corners and attach with a sort-of “L” shaped mortise and tenon. This ...
This board is not part of the 150.. I showed one of the 150 to a friend and she wanted one but a little larger,This is the way it was made.Cut some bits of board. NGR SA TBDress all sides.This is to see the way it will look with the stripe. Cut all pieces to 250 mm.Join the NGR and edge with TB on one and SA for the other.Glue a sacrificial board to the SA prior to cutting the arcs.This is the arc cutting jig.. a slight variation on the patron jigSet the stop with a nail… high tech I kn...
I have re-created the episode on building a jig to mate two curved surfaces for gluing. I hope this is much better.
Yesterday I cut the curves in the apron and the tapers in the legs. I just bent a stick between two blocks for the long curve and marked it: I used a bowed stick with a string to mark the smaller arc: I made the cuts on the bandsaw and left a hair extra: Then the curves were trimmed right down to the line on the R.O. sander: In this photo you can barely see the lines I drew for the “recess” drop-down for the sewing machine. Well, this is h...
Talk about extreme curves, this design takes the cake! Even though it wasn’t built out of wood, it very well could have been. Fibeglass makes it lighter. Here’s how the chair was made: “The chair was sculpted at 1/8th scale using Sculpey clay. From there, the model was cut into ¼ inch slices. These slices were scanned, blown up to full scale, and plotted to be used as a template for the full scale model. From there, the templates were adhered to 2 inch pink insulat...
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