There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own. For this series, I am going to do a write up on re-purposing an inexpensive gents saw into a western style dovetail saw. This idea...
I managed to grab a few hours when it wasn’t raining and decided to sharpen Big Joe, the first of my crosscut backsaws. I got ¾ of the way through filing in new teeth and my file gave out. I’ve ordered some more files which should be here early next week, so I’ll return to Big Joe in a future post. I didn’t want to waste the day however, so I decided to sharpen a handsaw instead – a first for me. Some months ago, I restored a couple of 26” Disston D8s. This one is 8PPI (points per in...
Here are pictures of the bed crown and painting of the nursery I did.
Got a lot done yesterday. All parts cut, banded, edges cleaned up and panels processed. I have all but trim building completed on the beds and haven’t started on the bookcases yet. I plan on getting this completely finished today. Luckly I don’t have to stain and apply a finish. It is shipping unfinished. Here is the raw videos:Spriggs cut ripSpriggs BandingSpriggs re-cutCutting light holesVerticalsSpriggs HeaderSpriggs CrownSpriggs CenterSpriggs Face Building Pictures ...
I’ve started on a king size murphy bed. King is not one of the “standard” sizes. As in standard I mean there is no plans for this size. One of the problems with the king is the weight. Most of my murphy beds are perfectly counter-balanced. To help gain mechanical leverage I moved the position of the piston mounting plates. I could only move it 5/8” back. That may not seem like much but when the original distance of the pistons are 7 ½” from the pivot point, that’s about an 8% increas...
As it seems with every project, there are always set-backs. I was nearly finished except for the bottom doors when I ran out of stain. The paint store that custom-mixed the stain is 35 miles away so I decided to experiment with dye. Well, not on the bookcase, but on my hair. Do you like the results? When I finally got the stain and finished the doors, I had only three hinges for the bottom doors. The top doors were made with an additional ¼” added to make the doors 1” thick wh...
Building the lighting section was a little more challenging. I used a 2¼” stock crown molding to trim out the area where the fluorescent light would be. I needed a ledge on which the lighting panel could set, so I routed a narrow piece of oak using the rail bit and cut off the “lip” and glued it into a dado I cut into the back of the crown molding. I also cut a dado into the main carcass and inserted a “lip” into it as well. We want to be able to remove this bookcase without d...
This bookcase was designed to camouflage ductwork and to replace a portion of the book storage from a 10’ x 6’ shelving unit that we removed to remodel our dining room. The next three pictures show the ductwork and the steps from paneling to painted drywall. The horizontal ducts were covered in oak with rails and stiles cut to enclose lighting panels to match the kitchen woodwork and lighting (not shown, around the corner to the left). Next I began working on the crown to e...
I had already started working on the design for this bookcase when I became aware of this contest. Realizing that my built-in application (designed to conceal ductwork) was quite different from the needs of most people, I slightly redesigned the crown to make it a free-standing bookcase (although, for the sake of safety, I would still attach it to a wall if I were to place this one in my home). The close-up of the crown shows the area for built-in lighting which is simply a 36” fluore...
I took a Woodcraft class last year called Hand Tool Basics and Sharpening. Took me through sharpening cabinet scrapers, chisels, hand planes and saws. A little bit about how to use them, but nothing significant. Loved the class, and I have to say I’m very happy with the sharpness of the chisels and plane blades I have done on my own since that class. Today I needed to cut up some MDF for a shooting board. Not knowing if MDF is good or bad for saws, I decided I didn’t want to ri...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1736 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 98 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 78 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1761 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 410 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- mafe - 303 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 239 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- robscastle - 216 entries
- stefang - 215 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Dave Rutan - 210 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 193 entries
- Rustic - 190 entries