I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions. -----The seat cushion and the ottoman cushion require web frames. Here I am milling the half-lap components for the web frames. -----Web frame assemblies are glued together. The seat frame should be sized 1/4” smaller in all directions than the opening in your chair, to allow room for the leather and two layers of batting.-----Corner blocks are added to the large seat cushion for additional strength. -----I...
I got 2 1” Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery Corp. – 2TPI and 3TI – several months ago, and have been dying to try them out ever since. In that time I had several more projects, mom’s 10-day long yearly visit, my best friends’ wedding, a project I built for that (that I should post one of these days), and so much else. I didn’t want to use them until I had a resawing jig ready to go, so realizing that time was now, I jumped on it yesterday, later in ...
This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak. -----I started with some veneers for the legs. I resawed some 3/4” stock at the bandsaw, and planed them to thickness. Then I wrapped them with some shrink wrap to keep them flat. ----- The veneers are slightly oversized, and 1/4” thick. Although the finished veneers will be only 3/32” thick, I leave them thicker because 1) they are easier to glue up, and 2) they come out of the planer lo...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
Since I have installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman tablesaw, I have had a few people asking how I installed it, especially, how I installed the fence so that it would zero properly. For those that are thinking about installing this fence on a craftsman, you WILL have to drill new holes in the rails. You can use one of the existing holes, but you will not be able to ‘0’ the fence. I wish that I had taken pictures of each step to further clarify the information listed be...
Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.-----I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4” deep and cut in multiple shallow passes. -----I used a 1/4” spiral bit to center a 3/8” groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.-----I set up my t...
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6” over two 8” drawers. -----Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.-----A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. -----Side panels glued up. -----Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. Next up is the back panel and web frames.
Here is my process for cutting the inlay shown on Glen Huey’s mirror frame. First I used a 2-1/8” forstner bit to cut a hole for the template. The template is made from 1/4” mdf core plywood, and a couple 2” wide strips of mdf on the underside. The underside of the jig is shown here. The mdf strips trap the 3-1/2” workpiece, and center the hole. My walnut stock was less than 3-1/2” wide, so I wedged it in place. Here is the jig and the route...
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