LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'craftsman'

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View Gary Fixler's profile

resawing #1: At last, a resawing jig!

06-15-2009 12:31 PM by Gary Fixler | 7 comments »

I got 2 1” Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery Corp. – 2TPI and 3TI – several months ago, and have been dying to try them out ever since. In that time I had several more projects, mom’s 10-day long yearly visit, my best friends’ wedding, a project I built for that (that I should post one of these days), and so much else. I didn’t want to use them until I had a resawing jig ready to go, so realizing that time was now, I jumped on it yesterday, later in ...

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View pintodeluxe's profile

Stickley / Jeff Jewitt Arts and Crafts Finish

04-15-2013 01:24 AM by pintodeluxe | 14 comments »

I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...

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Stickley #369 Morris Chair #6: Leather Upholstery

03-24-2014 11:12 PM by pintodeluxe | 18 comments »

I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions. -----The seat cushion and the ottoman cushion require web frames. Here I am milling the half-lap components for the web frames. -----Web frame assemblies are glued together. The seat frame should be sized 1/4” smaller in all directions than the opening in your chair, to allow room for the leather and two layers of batting.-----Corner blocks are added to the large seat cushion for additional strength. -----I...

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Arts and Crafts 6 Drawer Dresser #1: Legs and Side Panel Glueups

12-11-2012 06:30 PM by pintodeluxe | 4 comments »

I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...

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View Jamie's profile

Delta T2 Fence #6: How to setup and install on a Craftsman tablesaw

01-19-2008 07:58 AM by Jamie | 13 comments »

Since I have installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman tablesaw, I have had a few people asking how I installed it, especially, how I installed the fence so that it would zero properly. For those that are thinking about installing this fence on a craftsman, you WILL have to drill new holes in the rails. You can use one of the existing holes, but you will not be able to ‘0’ the fence. I wish that I had taken pictures of each step to further clarify the information listed be...

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View pintodeluxe's profile

Arts and Crafts Wedge and Strap Bed #1: Laminated Posts

07-16-2013 07:34 PM by pintodeluxe | 9 comments »

This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak. -----I started with some veneers for the legs. I resawed some 3/4” stock at the bandsaw, and planed them to thickness. Then I wrapped them with some shrink wrap to keep them flat. ----- The veneers are slightly oversized, and 1/4” thick. Although the finished veneers will be only 3/32” thick, I leave them thicker because 1) they are easier to glue up, and 2) they come out of the planer lo...

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Cherry Refreshment Table #1: Breadboard Ends and Tusk Tenons

02-02-2014 06:40 AM by pintodeluxe | 10 comments »

Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.-----I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4” deep and cut in multiple shallow passes. -----I used a 1/4” spiral bit to center a 3/8” groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.-----I set up my t...

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View pintodeluxe's profile

Mirror Inlay

09-24-2012 03:52 AM by pintodeluxe | 4 comments »

Here is my process for cutting the inlay shown on Glen Huey’s mirror frame. First I used a 2-1/8” forstner bit to cut a hole for the template. The template is made from 1/4” mdf core plywood, and a couple 2” wide strips of mdf on the underside. The underside of the jig is shown here. The mdf strips trap the 3-1/2” workpiece, and center the hole. My walnut stock was less than 3-1/2” wide, so I wedged it in place. Here is the jig and the route...

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View pintodeluxe's profile

Arts and Crafts Nightstand #1: Side panels and Arched Lower Rail

05-17-2013 09:44 PM by pintodeluxe | 5 comments »

Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6” over two 8” drawers. -----Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.-----A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. -----Side panels glued up. -----Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. Next up is the back panel and web frames.

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View CaptainSkully's profile

Limbert Lamp Table - Stickley #240 #9: Finish Line

10-25-2009 09:40 PM by CaptainSkully | 7 comments »

I finally had a day to work on our stuff. With a little urging from my girlfriend to finish the fumed table sitting in our dining room, I bit the bullet and gave it a good shellacing. This was my first time using shellac. It’s pretty difficult to work with, as it dries fast and leave a build-up. I cut the Zinser Amber in half with denatured alcohol, and grabbed a beer for myself (I thought it only fair), and went to town on it. It gave it a nice, rich look. When that dried, I ...

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