So, today I did my first woodworking in the shop since I cut my finger off. I installed the splitter on my table saw. It only took five minutes. As my fellow woodworkers know, it’s a huge pain. It’s in the way when you try to measure the width of every cut (so I’m resorting to using the tape on the saw), and it can only be used for cuts greater than 1-1/2” wide (otherwise the push stick won’t fit through. I’ve yet to see how it works with the dado blad...
The table assembly is now complete. Since the leaves store in the table, the aprons needed to be hinged. I used short piano (continuous) hinges from hardware source.com. The hinges are 4.5” long, and lock at 90 degrees, similar to jewlery box hinges. I used inset rare earth magnets to lock the hinged aprons in there in-use positions. Felt lines the frame, which creates a nice little nest for the leaves. The table extends to accept two 12” leaves v...
as I mentioned in the previous post, I started working on refitting my Craftsman 10” table saw with a Delta T2 fence, based on Jaime’s blog posts. I have everything measured and marked but I’m not at all clear on how high the front rail (or the rear rail, for that matter) should go relative to the table. Jaime mentioned drilling the holes offset vertically from the manufacturer’s holes, but he just said “a bit” I didn’t see any other real indication ...
Finally got my website up!! byronconn.com My friend Matt Olpinski made it for me, working with him has been incredible and he is extremely talented at what he does. Thanks Matt
Table Saw Jigs #1: A Crosscut / Miter Sled for Craftsman 10" Table Saw With Non-Standard Miter Slots
Here’s a link to a video that I made about my new crosscut / miter sled that I built for my Sears Craftsman 10” Table Saw with non-standard miter slots. I hope this helps some others who are looking for a solution to improve the accuracy of cross cuts and miter cuts with similar inadequately equipped table saws. I added the miter cutting features after this video was made, so I will have to update the video or include some new photos at another time. http://youtu.be/0Gr5t...
Here is the design for the nightstand….-----I set about notching stock for the web frames. I use a dado blade, however a bandsaw would work too. -----The web frames are joined with biscuits, and checked with a straightedge. -----Web frames and more web frames…------One or two of the joints needed a few passes with a block plane. -----I glued the lower front rail in place, connecting the two side panels. It’s amazing how much strength a through M&T joint has. ------...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang’s book “More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”, I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I “borrowed” the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template. I’m going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like Tre...
So after much debate, discussions of the pros/cons of the new granite topped Ridgid R4511, going back and forth, research, research, research… I finally settled on the saw I wanted (in theory… I hadn’t seen it yet in person!). I decided that the Craftsman 22124 was the right saw for me. It fit my shop, and came with a biesmeyer fence, which was really what cinched it for me. That fence is a $350 upgrade to any other stock fence… and it’s the gold standard th...
Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I’m cutting the miters. I created the jigs to hold the sides stable while I cut them at a 44 degree mit...
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