In this blog I am going to give you a how to on my metallic finish of copper patina and rust application on wood As you can see I started with a small vessel that has been hollowed. This vessel is about 5 inches in heigh. I only want to rust the top as I am going to copper patina the base. The rust paint is a paint from Michaels which is a hobby store here in the USA. The paint is very thick and contains metal flake. It is put on very heavy and allowed to dry. Here I have applied...
As woodworkers we also need to cut metal once in a while. Also, having the ability to cut metal will allow us to create custom handles as I have on past projects. The question is how do we get a clean cut? Hacksaw? Reciprocating saw? Nope – portaband is the answer. The portaband is a powerful, smooth cutting portable bandsaw and a tool that I recommend for any custom woodworkding shop. Hope you enjoy! Your friend in the shop- Todd A. Clippinger Share the Love~Share ...
I build wood geared clocks and have been thinking about making the gears looks a little more metal like with maybe some bronze and copper powders in a stain. Has anyone done this before and how did it turn out? I do not want the gears to be bright metal colored just have a hint of aged bronze look to them. I found another clock maker in Russia but the translation is completely lost between responses. The video of his clock can be seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrF70MW7c1c It...
OK, I was not going to start this knife for a while, too busy….. but I could not help myself. (I might need help) I found a piece of spalted pallet wood. With heart and sap wood. I think it’s kinda pretty. (This one is for you Jusfine ) I bought a lathe about a year ago ($75, garage sale, including the chisels), but I never dared to turn it on. Well, last night was the night, and I am still here. For the knife I used an old sawzall blade, the same as I did with the ca...
The First Garboard Plank The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I’ve gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I’ve put in a few hours here and there, but I’ve taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I’m exciting to be focused again. The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It’s a tough plank bec...
I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn’t go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I’m much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter. Results ...
Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides. Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3”x1”x3/8”) as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture: And the after picture. This was done on both ...
This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern. Keel Rabbet Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section. To me, it seemed practical to try ...
It’s been a busy month for other things, but I’ve made some good progress on the boat. I’ve also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I’ll write about a bit below. But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern. The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I’ll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush. And a ...
This is one of the many reasons why I love woodworking. It is figuring out how to get accurate results and moving up the learning curve. And speaking of curves, isn’t that the point of this series? Now that the three arches have been fabricated it is time to begin making some exact cuts and building the sub-assemblies. On this project I’m contrsturcting from the inside out starting with the inner frame of the headboard. Once again I’ve found Sketchup to be an invaluable...
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