In this video I make a retro looking coffee table out of solid Marri. View on YouTube More: www.jordswoodshop.com
I have my first project done, fireplace mantel. Added a few new tools.Thickness planer and router. We planned down some boards to 7/8” thickness.I clamped in pairs and used my #8 plane to match the ends.We glued enough boards for the top and a bottom shelf. Now I need to figure out how to flatten the tops of the joined boards.Need to read on on this.I am assuming #8 plane again. I am thinking of glueing up 3×3 legs.Not sure about the apron or how to attach the bottom sh...
I used Bob Lang’s Popular Woodworking plan for this Contemporary Coffee Table. Within a few days I have milled the rough sawn poplar lumber, glued the table’s top panel and then cut the legs, rails and aprons. I am making this as a gift for my wife’s son Scot and his Ginger. Over a year ago I promised to make them a table for their living room. He gave me the general dimensions for his table: 24” by 24” by 18” tall. At the time I thought the table mig...
Somewhere around March or April 2015 Spoiler: This is the new re-do. The story on the rest follows. ———————————————————————————————————————- I’d just finished the Cherry Morris Chairs project. I needed to repair the lift mechanism on the accurse...
Once I made the pieces for the frame , it was time to start making different cuts. Mortise and tennon cuts should be made for each leg. These holes will allow the frame to fit into the legs. Also the tops of the legs were cut. The thickness that the holes on top of the legs should be the thickness of the ends of the top pieces of the bracket for the table itself. The two cut ends will fit together so the ends of the frame pieces will sit on top of the leg cuts.
I am making a coffee table and so far I got my pieces for the base if the table. Basic techniques were used to cut these pieces such as the table saw, plainer and the jointer. These pieces will mainly be used for the base. After the base if assembled, the pieces for the dewars will be made. Then the table top will eventually be added on. These pieces include the legs of the table and the frame.
The dry assembly looked good, so I chamfered the ends of the through tenons, and glued up the table. -----Lapped dovetails secure the top stretchers. -----The half-lap joints and the lapped dovetails all came out flush.-----Then I cut the tops with a circle cutting jig and plunge router. I used a 1/4” spiral bit and cut the top free in multiple passes. -----The 1” thick top came out nice, with minimal sanding at the oscillating belt sander. I eased the edges with a 1/8”...
This is a series of videos showing how I made my sculpted coffee table for the Coffee Table Build-Off hosted by Neil Cronk of the Cronkwright Woodshop this past month. This is the project playlist I posted on my YouTube channel.
In my last entry, I finished by attaching the top as you can see in this picture: Before I attached the top, I roughly cut the end of the leg to size so I then had to blend the top and legs into one table. I used my spokeshave to create round-over where the route couldn’t reach. I used chisels to cut the bulk of the tenon and I then used rasps to blend everything together. Finally, I had to sand the entire table. Thankfully, I had access to a pneumatic sander which is ...
In this entry, I’ll cover some design and the construction process for the top. This blog series is not in chronological order but for the ease of reading, I’ll cover all of the top in a single entry as opposed to covering it in a few separate entries. As I wrote in my first entry, I decided to make the top more stable without making the top too thick. I call this “the spine”. The center section of my top is made from 8/4 maple and I decided to put a half-cove on ea...
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