So a few weeks ago i posted a picture of the cabinet I made for American Woodworker Magazine. Well finally I’ve got the video done. Hope you enjoy it.
EDIT: It is actually a 5A X.. That tells you how much crud is on it. I just picked up this at a community garage sale for 35 bucks. I can not find any real info on it. The only other one I can find are about the No. 7 X. How rare is this plane and How old is it? I assume its pretty old considering the hole at the top of the blade. Well I plan to do a light cleaning just to get the crud off. If it turns out to rare I will leave it at that and just sharpen it. I can’t wait to see how ...
Well after going almost 2 months without doing a video and almost 2 weeks not being in the shop, I figured I would get some work done and while in the process shoot a short video. Well sadly my shop light burnt out and I have no bulbs for it, but I did get the video filmed before the light went out. Enjoy it and as always, all comments (good, bad, or terrible), tips, and tricks are welcome. Thanks!
It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless: I was bummed, but hey it was a good learning experience, and I have been keeping an eye open for a replacement #5 ever since. not reall...
Spring is here and the itch to get back in the shop is biting. First things first though and the first of the first things is cleaning up. It’s a wonder how much a mess the shop can get in even when I’m not actively working in it. One of the many things due to be cleaned are my table saw blades. Here’s how I do it: First get some Simple Green Pro HD, not the regular green stuff, the purple stuff. Rumor has it the green stuff is hard on the brazing but the purple is o...
When cleaning furniture, a little water is usually all you need. Most of the time you don’t need store bought furniture polishes or waxes. Most furniture these days just need to be dusted and if really dirty cleaned with a moist rag. Wax will build up and can leave the finish streaky and sticky. Some products may even have a solvent in them to cut oil and grease that can soften the finish of the piece. What I normally do is wet a rag and wring it out as much as possible. This le...
I’m new here at LJ and I wondered why “Healthy Shop” wasn’t a topic of discussion here…maybe I just missed the discussion? As we all know there are hazards in the work place. The hobby shop is no exception. Lose your health and you lose a lot. I first read here about the Dust Deputy collection system to reduce dust in the shop. I checked out their prices and thought “If this was made in China, it would be $20!” Being the cheapskate that I am ...
I keep seeing these posts pop up more often than not about the scribed line for dovetails, should you leave them on? should you scrap/sand them off? Some say it tells the joint was hand made, Others rightfully so say that the piece itself tells that it was hand made…. Should you make them with a scriber? Or a pencil? A pencil line is easier to remove, but harder to line up to as you are relying on eye sight, Whereas a scribed line with a knife is a no brainer since you just rest your...
So the first piece was really a “how does the trigger works” more than anything. some positions felt a bit awkward, and others’ were a mystery but all in all, a good learning experience. as I posted earlier, the 1st piece is in front, while the original piece is in the back: Lesson Learnt: With the second piece, I followed some given advice added to the already advice I’ve been collecting online for the past who knows how long from people like Charles Neil...
So a point was raised in my previous installment of this blog regarding tiling appearance of materials (once you assign your custom material to your model and scale it up you’d see the same material pattern repeat over and over again with distinct horizontal and vertical lines (the seams) that separate those repetitions. This tutorial will show you how to eliminate those seams from your materials, and make it possible to seamlessly tile your material over larger areas. I will show yo...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1488 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1512 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 240 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- shipwright - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 197 entries
- stefang - 186 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 177 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries