Hi everybody, I’ve been attempting to record as much of the process of designing and building a Jewelry Armoire / Lingerie Chest of drawers as I can manage. The effort to document the work on my personal site is already substantial, so I wasn’t able to duplicate the blog posts over here. I started this project on 11/1/2013 and am 2 days from completing it. I’ve lived with this project in my brain for so long now that I have mixed feelings about being done with it. It&...
This past weekend I did a pretty massive and ridiculously stressful glue up. It wasn’t as bad as I’m making it sound but with how long I’ve been working on this chest of drawers, I just wanted it to come out square and solid. I’m pleased to announce that I was successful. Because of the magnitude of this glue-up, I didn’t bother taking any pictures. The biggest part was gluing the outer frame with the panels in place, and then while all of that was safely clamped...
Complicated Face Frame The Dr. White’s chest is a combination wardrobe/chest of drawers and has a complicated face frame. There are eight mortise and tenon joints, ten dovetail joints, and one half-lap joint in the frame. I cut the dovetail joints with my Leigh dovetail jig. Watch this video to see how I cut the female portion of the face frame dovetail joints. I cut the male portion of the joint using the same jig in the vertical mode and the bit set at the same depth. NOTE: Chip out...
Watch this video that takes a quick tour of the furniture I’ve made for my master bedroom. Future blog entries will include the family room, kitchen, dining room, guest bedroom, and living room. I’ve built seven pieces of furniture for my master bedroom over the years. I like furniture that is in the Shaker or the modern Shaker style and have stayed mostly with that style in solid cherry with a natural oil finish. The bed is the oldest piece and was built in 1991. ...
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.-----Oil based stain was applied to the carcases and drawer fronts. I sprayed the carcases, and wiped stain on the drawer fronts. -----Then I sprayed two coats of lacquer, scuff sanding between coats. ----- Next I install the Centerline full extension drawer slides. Having web frames is convienent, and I simply set the slides down on the web frames. -----I use a jig to align the slides. ...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1615 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1640 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 223 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- robscastle - 182 entries