Just a notion I had to make a different border for the drunken chess board..The Idea is to take the border 1/2” away from the outer edge of the board.. and hold it there with brass pins.???What do you think?
I bought some nice Glass chess pieces at a garage.. read yard… sale.. lolThought I would post some pics of the the Why Do I? board set up for chess..I think It sets it off.I posted here ‘cause I wanted to avoid an accusation of reposting the same things twice?I think that keeping with the theme here I will post pics with shot glasses used as checkers.. lolTake a piece and take a shot lllooottttssss of fun hey.Anyone for a game? !!
When making a traditional chess board from timber, the two different timbers are cut into 4 boards each… glued together in alternating stripes and then cross cut and rotated and reglued to make the checker design.. This also gives the squares the same direction of grain pattern. I know that most people shy away from cutting all the squares and then gluing up each piece … but as most of you will know, I have had much practice and for me it is no more difficult than glueing two...
Here be a few photographs on a border design for one of the chess boards. This board is NSW Rosewood and Camphor Laurel The border was made by cutting triangles of NSW Rosewood and Silver Ash and laminating them between strips of Camphor Laurel and Queensland Maple..alternating the colors.. Then it was a matter of making a lip in some Rosewood and glueing the Triangular feature to the solid rosewood and mitre cutting the corners… this is actually harder than you might think...
From yesterdays post you know that I have a new friend.. he makes chess pieces… and I am making a chess board for him… it has to be larger than the standard international size.. which is 45 mm [1 3/4 inches] per side of each square… This new board is made from Queensland Maple [flindersia brayleyana] and Silver Ash [flindersia shottiana].. and the squares have been beefed up to 70 mm [2 3/4 inches.] First step .. rip and dress to size… I am actually making two ...
Hello. About a week ago I finished my chessboard project and gave it to my uncle on Christmas Eve. I do not have any good pictures of the completed project yet. My uncle’s wife is a photographer so I will soon get pictures of the board from her, then post pictures of the finished project. After the last blog entry, the first task I had to do was plane the underside of the board to fit to the groove in the frame. I just used my scrub plane to roughly flatten and bevel all edges until ...
Last spring my son and daughter-in-law wondered whether I could make them a larger chess board than the one they were using. We haven’t discussed it since, so I decided to surprise them with one for Christmas. Here is the completed board. I was discussing this project with a friend from church. He offered me a piece of walnut he had been storing for more than 30 years (he has a lot more). I bought a piece of maple from a local store (cheaper than the big box stores). Here is what...
Hello. Since my last post I got the carcase glued together. But before I glued the carcase together I drilled two countersunk holes through the rails. These are going to be for screws that will go through the rails into the board’s frame, holding the top to the carcase. The holes are slightly larger than the screws, so they should allow for any wood movement between the carcase and top. Before glue up I smoothed the inside surfaces. After the carcase was dry I clamped it to my ...
I gave up on finishing this checkerboard project in time for Christmas, and then I was out of commission with a bad chest cold for another three weeks. Once I was back to 100%, I got to work finishing my White Oak Bookcase project. Now it’s time I got this one back on track. The last thing I had done on this project was to glue up all the squares for the top. I did half of the board at a time and then used my biscuit joiner to join the two sections together. I put in some time ...
I decided to make a 4.75” chess set and board. I knew it would take a while and it has taken me about 30 minutes per pawn to turn them not including 5 coats of wipe on poly with dry time between. So far I’ve turned all of the white pawns, which are curly maple. This is the first one I turned and it’s looking pretty rough, but I’ve gotten much better since I started. It all started with these turning templates that I made. I found the design for the pieces on the web...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1598 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1623 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 219 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries