Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
13 Jan 2015 Past few days I’ve completed the leg blanks. Prepared the upper and lower side rails with stub tenons. Using a taper jig cut the top rails to match the desired angle. Cut and sized the front and back rails along with the seat support cleats. Once done with these I carefully marked each leg with the mortise positions making sure of their relative locations. Two lefts don’t make a right. Mortising was a long grueling smoking endeavor. At first I’...
Hello fellow sawdust makers, Enjoy the video below, I sand and discuss a little of my sanding technique https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvvg97_uHJ8
We’ll the file cabinet is finally finished. I applied 3 coats of Arm R Seal satin with a new T-shirt. This is the first time I’ve worked with this product, and I really like it. It is much thinner than Minwax, and goes on very easy and was pretty forgiving. I let it dry at least 6 hours between coats, and scuffed it with 0000 steel wool after the second coat. The final coat went on silky smooth with no real dust specs that I can find. I like the satin finish, and will use it...
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...
As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply water-borne acrylics—none are really lacque...
I am starting to put together an article covering finishing and this will be part of the coverage but not just limited to preventing blotching as a wash coat will aid in a more consistent staining color. This will be updated as my thoughts are organized. This is only a small portion: A wash coat is a coat of thinned finish that’s applied to bare wood to partially seal the surface before a stain is applied. It reduces the amount of stain from soaking into the wood and causing blotching. ...
Thanks for the comments and suggestions on my last post. I don’t have a dado blade yet, but after a quick search I found a box joint jig for a single blade table saw. It is basically a drill bit that is the same size as the kerf of the saw blade stuck into a piece of wood. I did a test cut in some plywood and found a drill bit that just fit. I then drilled an undersize hole in some scrap wood and pressed the bit into place. The only restriction here is that the bit be closer to the...
The first step in making my daughter’s window seat bookcase is to create the sides and the interior dividers (shown in blue above). This is panel construction with a more difficult step which I’ll get to in the my next blog post. The legs are 1.5” square cherry and it looks like there is a little quilting going on in the legs, not sure. To create the curve on the lower rail, I literally printed the component straight from SketchUp and taped it onto some 1/4”...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1507 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1531 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 252 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 186 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 177 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 165 entries