So now that I have the rough lumber down to final dimensions, I marked out the middle of each piece, both vertical and horizontal and then marked 7mm on each side for a 14mm wide dado. The depth was approx 6mm as well, which I had to consider when cutting the horizontal slats. The slats themselves I wanted free floating, as I didn’t want to domino all the slats into one piece, but could have. I did a quick dry fit to ensure there were no problems (other than my camera skills)..... ...
Once I had the lumber roughly the dimensions I wanted as well as having one face and the edges jointed, it was time to get gluing! I pulled out the domino and started joining the two jointed faces on each board with dominos and glue. This was followed by A LOT of clamping, although not as much as some have done for their projects. Clamping cauls were used on some parts while pine spacers were used on others simply to avoid marks or indentations on the cedar itself. The main comp...
I promised my better half that I’d complete the outdoor projects this summer and so far, haven’t been able to hold true to my word due to a wet and unpredictable summer. I did want to get a healthy start on the projects though and started by planning a simple gate for our seldom used side of the house. Simple but appealing is what I was looking for, so I started with rough dimensions for the gate. As I had some new & stained cedar, some old, weathered cedar and scraps to ...
I was tired of my old bar style rack. It would always come loose from the wall, always had the towels falling off, and it just didn’t look nice. I took it to the next level and create a new towel rack. YouTube Link-Remember to Subscribe!
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted on this project to I’d like to catch up with the progress. Last time I posted, another lumberjock mentioned a concern with a lack of diagonal bracing. I’ve been seriously looking into altering the design to make sure I cover this issue. I posted in the forum and received some pretty great feedback. Here is the link if anyone is interested: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/167994 So moving on, I needed to do some detail work the edges....
It’s taking me a while but I have finished shaping the four legs for the cabinet/stand I am working on. I have also cut the mortice and tenon joints for the top of the legs and the rails.Next is cutting and fitting the cross rails which will be double mortice and tenon. I have also made 3 ply corners for the top of the legs which are to be scroll sawn with a beautiful Cherry Blossom design by David Stanley. Hopefully this will all give it a Japanese look and feel.
Yesterday and today were big days. Our shop welder made some steel plates and tapped & died some holes to receive the 1/2” all thread. I mortised out an area for them to go on the bottom of the top main runner. Then I glued the main runners together and let them cook over night. Today I put everything together and test fit the cannon in the carriage. Fit like a glove! I did have to notch out the elevation plate so it would sit lower. I also cut down the elevation wedge to make the c...
Today I finished up mortising the crossmember in and bored them for all thread. (Thanks for the tip tblank). I also routered a groove in the elevation platform for the elevation wedge to slide on. Then I did a dry fit of everything. I have a few other things to do on this project but I should be able to start glueing tomorrow! Elevation platform and wedge. Here I am marking the main runners for boring be taping this all thread thru my crossmember. Time to test fit! Front Rear
It doesn’t seem like it but I put in a long day and got a lot done. I put the main runners together and fit the hardware. Then measured again and did some layout work. I was then able to cut the cross members. Once I had that done I started to cut out the main runners to accept the crossmembers. These will be all threaded as well as glued. Any members have any tips for boring thru main runners and cross members? The paint turned out really nice.
I’ve received the brass hardware back from blasting and polishing. Now I can start cutting and laying out pieces for the carriage! I’ve spoken to several retired navy sailors and found out that people would take spent shells and or parts from decommission ships and cast them into other parts. So WM.C. Capehart was probably the person that made the cast pattern and the U.S.S. Vulcan was a repair ship that served beginning in the 1940’s and was scrapped in 2006. Here is the Wi...
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