I am back from camp and ready to see what was completed. I left with most parts cut out and at least on example of the part that were to be built. I save a copy of my notes online so that I could give instructions from camp if needed. Click on the pictures to see all them. (Good luck with deciphering them). Did have as much done as I would have liked to but that is what I expected. Nothing got totally completed, there was a lot of skipping around. Here are some pictures: For mor...
I have the bookcase built for the murphy bed. They went together fairly quickly. I made a jig that acts as a square for the shelves. It also keeps the shelves from moving when the pocket screws at put in. Here is a picture of the jig. I have it notched out for an overhang I usually put on the top. I usually attach all shelves on one side and then flip it over and repeat. With the jig it also keeps glue from getting everywhere when I flip it. Here is the assemble footage Here are ...
The finish is dry and all that is left is the final assembly. Now these many pieces have to be put together. The side rails had to have the brackets placed and the portholes attached. The toy box had to have the lid mounted, cleats put on and wheels added to the bottom. The headboard had the lights installed with the switch and the back tact on. I cut 9 slats for this bed since it will take just a mattress only. I ripped a 1×12 down in thirds (about 3 5/8”). As soon as I get it...
Today I worked on some of the smaller details. I built the smoke stack, cattle guard, the front lights housing, and a ladder. For the smoke stack I used a 8” drain pipe. This was left over from a previous job. I really liked the fitting that is molded to one end. It gave it a little detail without me having to add something up there. To attach it to the front, I cut like a half-lap style joint out of the pipe. I cut it using a circler caw. Since the top of the front of the bed was c...
A lot got completed today. Actually I got most of it complete minus a few details. First I cut out the sides. I drew a life size version of it on cardboard on the last blog to give me a since of proportion. So today I just transferred the measurements. Instead of just cutting it out with a jig saw, I used a router to get clean and straight lines. I used the jig saw and circular saw for the rough cuts and came back with square jigs, made especially for this project and straight edges. ...
There are a few corrections on the first page and can be seen here. This information is from an actual build of a corian countertop. This was a job for united technologies 6 restrooms with three undermount sinks each. Photos were taken along the way. I will be as clear as possible on all the steps needed to accomplish this. We are lucky enough to have a CNC for the cutouts. Laying them out on cad is extremely cost effective. If you dont have on you can use a mock-up piece you cut from p...
From my blog: Where I was a while ago: Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch – but don’t sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once. Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings’ EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish: Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mor...
My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table. Now I continue, with the glue-up of the boards that will make up the table top. The top will be 1-1/2 inches thick, 30 inches wide, and 60 inches long. At this stage the boards are a little thicker than 1-5/8”. From my blog: After prepping the boards that will make up the table top, it is now time to glue them up. Due to their sheer size, I do this in stages, two boards at a time. Doing i...
From my blog: Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards: But I will change the edge treatment as follows: I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am not flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job: Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did...
Hey guys! Taking advantage of the long weekend here in Canada, (so this was last weekend) I made a better base for my dremel. I was taking it apart to see why it was squeaking (trapped sawdust) when the idea hit me – drill the existing screw holes all the way through the body, and get a longer screw to hold the dremel together (like the old screws) and hold the dremel to the base. Well, I didn’t have a screw quite that long and thin, but I did have some short screws of the correct diameter. S...
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