And the rest… [Below] One of the chairs (only one!) had back legs that curved slightly inward. This prevented it from stacking on top of the other chairs. I made a spacer and wet the legs to try and curve them outwards. It worked! Here I am repeating the process, adding a washer at the end of the spacer stick to try and open it up a bit more. [Below] The other 5 remaining chairs having been sanded and ready for staining. Somehow the center of gravity is such that 6 ch...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] The only thing I had time to do yesterday was glue up the last seat back Yay! Part of what you see below was done Friday evening, the rest this afternoon. [Below] The chair receives a treatment of Dark Cherry stain, both top and bottom. I knew these cheap foam brushes would come in handy. [Below] After the excess stain is wiped off, the chair is ready for the lacquer. [Below] I’m using a spray lacquer. It’s one of the reasons I ...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] Started the day like always, gluing up another back piece. One more to go! [Below] The seats are cut out of 1/2 inch plywood. First I rip the 2×4 foot sheet at 16 inches, then I cross cut to get 3 seats per sheet. It would be more economical to cut these from a larger sheet, but a) I have no way to get a 4×8 foot sheet in my car, b) pretty sure a full sheet gives me more seats than I actually need. I’ll use the cut off for something, I’...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] Today I started by removing yesterday’s back piece from the bending press and gluing up another one. Then I took one of the first ones I made and scraped any glue squeeze out from one edge. [Below] Running the clean edge along my rip fence, I skim trim the other edge to get it smooth. Then I do the same with the opposite side. [Below] The back piece blank is larger than needed. In this case, the space between the sides is 17 inches, just like i...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] [Below] The front legs are put on first because they have that convenient cut out which serves to support the seat frame. [Below] I’ve drilled and countersunk the holes in these pieces so that once they’re on it’s done. [Below] Before the glue dries I check that the legs are sitting the same. We’ll presume my table saw top is even. [Below] The backs legs to not have a mechanical reference for their position so I cut ...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] This morning I pegged the last 2 seat frames from yesterday and glued up another back piece. Onward! [Below] I used my official dovetail saw to cut the dowels flush with the side of the wood. [Below] I’m unsure if it helped, but I put a piece of duct tape on the side of the saw to try and keep the dowels microscopically proud of the surface and protect the wood from saw scratches. [Below] I was supposed to round over the inside tops of th...
Today I got the “furniture” pretty much completed. What remains to be made are the working parts of the saws and they will have to wait. Tomorrow I will switch gears and get into preparing for my presentations at the fine arts show. They are on Saturday and once I get through them (and maybe go sailing for a couple of days) I will get back to finish these little guys. The first shot here is of the chaos that happens when I get into a project. There are off-cuts everywhere and e...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] This morning I had an appointment, but before I left I unclamped yesterday’s glue-ups and glued up another back piece and the last two seat frames. When I returned it was time to peg the seat frames for which I made a jig. Always save your scrap! You never know when you’ll need to make a jig. [Below] This jig is only used to mark where I want to drill the holes for the pegs. It makes them more evenly spaced than exactly positioned. [...
[Legebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] [Below] I designed the seat frame to try and conceal the end grain of each board once the chair is completely assembled. Unfortunately this makes it a bit difficult to glue up. A band clamp won’t hold things together well, so I use my trusty bar clamps. [Below] It’s true that you can’t ever have too many clamps in the shop. I was only able to glue up 4 of the 6 chair seat frames today. I’ll let them set overnight and begin again t...
[Legeble ankaŭ en Esperanto] During the prototype process I built a 2-in-1 jig to make tapering the legs easier. [Below] Even though I chose boards that were pretty clear, they were still just common pine boards and had some small knots in them. By cutting the lengths carefully I eliminated some of them. Via the tapering of the legs, I was able to cut out a few more bad spots. (The wedge shaped cut offs from this project can be glued together and used for small projects.) ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1612 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1637 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 222 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- robscastle - 181 entries