LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'board'

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Bread Board (s) #1: Recovering the Lumber - or - how I leant to love bowling alley flooring

10-02-2010 04:42 AM by PurpLev | 20 comments »

OK, so now that the kitchen challenge is all over, I guess it’s a good time to post a blog regarding kitchen items … or… hold on… um – oops. too late. Oh well, I guess I’ll blog this anyways. So, the plan is to make a bread board. for the time being, the design shall remain unseen and will reveal in details as this blog series will progress. The board is primarily made of hard maple that I am recovering from bowling alley floors (I still have about ha...

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View jeff_wenz's profile

"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #4: Other important details

09-05-2010 04:23 AM by jeff_wenz | 5 comments »

So some important details I have not mentioned yet. The routed groove: There is 2 ½” inches from the front of the case to the groove. The top of the groove bends in ½” Heat Shields:Use aluminum for protection. I purchased a 24×6” piece and cut it in half. I sprayed it with white epoxy appliance spray paint then mounted it with 3M’s Super 77 spray adhesive. Shelf:Install in coordination with your heat shields. This put my shelf 12” down from the top. Electrical...

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"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #3: Parts list

09-05-2010 03:41 AM by jeff_wenz | 0 comments »

After building the mock up, here is the parts list: Case:(2) sides – ¾” maple/plywood combo (46 ½ x 7 ½”)(1) top – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) bottom – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) shelf – ¾ plywood (13×5 ¼”)(1) back – ¼” plywood (46 ½ x 14 ½”) Ironing Board:(1) ironing board – ¾” MDF (42 ¼ x 12”) the last 13” are tapered down to a 4 1/2” circle (see pic below with cottage cheese container)(1) board support – ¾” MDF (12×11 ½”) rounded – see pic below(1) slid...

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"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #2: Building a functional mock up

09-05-2010 02:01 AM by jeff_wenz | 0 comments »

So I know I need to work out the sliding mechanism. 3 goals here: 1. Make sure the components fit into the space I’m allocating for it.2. Ensure all the pieces work and it is easy to slide up and down.3. Make sure the ironing board is level in the down position. Here are all the components (minus the door which I will build as part of the Murphy bed complex). I built a wall (16” stud mockup) and starting assembling the pieces I had cut from my measurements in post #1...

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View jeff_wenz's profile

"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #1: measuring the model and planning any modifications

09-04-2010 06:52 PM by jeff_wenz | 2 comments »

So as part of a Murphy bed build, I wanted to incorporate a fold up (or hide away) ironing board. I have seen these at Lowes and Home Deport starting off about $168. They don’t look that hard to build and I sure think I could save some money AND incorporate some better materials. Step 1: Take my tape measure to Lowes and jot down some critical measurements. Ok, I forgot paper. Let’s see, what can I find in my glove box? Perfect, my State Farm insurance cards, I can use the ...

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View PurpLev's profile

Sketchup Resources #9: Wudworx Board Maker Plugin

08-12-2010 10:34 PM by PurpLev | 14 comments »

OK, so it all started when I was trying to write a blog to post as a tutorial for people starting out with SketchUp. halfway into the blog, I decided that a video would probably be easier for me, and easier for others. so I stopped the blog, and started capturing the video. Halfway through the capture I figured that I probably will need to go a little more basic and a bit more in detail in order to be more clear about certain things that I do – so I stopped the video. Then it hit me ...

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MDB #2: Shave and a Cut - Cross Cut that is

08-02-2010 05:30 AM by PurpLev | 5 comments »

Disclaimer: This blog follows my Magen David Board that is already finished and posted here At this point (see previous post for the methodology I chose to take for this project) , I realized that my plan for mass production, and gluing the long strips to one another to make the geometry would cause more trouble, and decided to cross cut them all to their final thickness instead, and in a way changed my work order to a ‘one of’ setup, albeit it would have been better if I did t...

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View Gary Fixler's profile

going green #1: veneer-thin poplar scraps glue-up

07-09-2010 12:23 PM by Gary Fixler | 7 comments »

A couple of years ago I built a standing floor cabinet foolishly out of all poplar (not true poplar, e.g. black poplar (Populus nigra) or white poplar (Populus alba), but tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), the stuff you (and I) get from Home Depot). It cost about $800+ in wood, and over $1k all together. I should have used plywood! I jointed the big pile of boards and ripped their other sides to get them all identical in width. This left me with a whole pile of extremely thin edge-str...

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View CaptainSkully's profile

Arts & Crafts Dining Room Set #17: Table Top Post Mortem

04-21-2010 05:25 PM by CaptainSkully | 5 comments »

We’ve been using the new top on top of our old table until I can finish the base. Over the last few months, the top has warped a bit, and was obviously out of alignment with the breadboard ends. While watching an old New Yankee Workshop online, I realized one of the things I did to cause this. I selected the boards for their aesthetic value, trying to match the grain to make it look like one solid piece of wood 38” wide. I neglected to alternate the boards’ growth rings,...

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View dustbunny's profile

The Wavy Larry- my jig

01-12-2010 04:12 AM by dustbunny | 18 comments »

I’ve had several LJ’s request pics of the jig I made for the wavy Larry board. I’ve snapped a few pics and sent PM’s with bits and pieces of info individually. Mikethetermite asked for some info a few days ago and I decided to bit the bullet and take the time to do it as a blog. Here goes- On my band saw table I have a sacrificial board- 3/4” plywood squared and framed to the table. The back frame piece unscrews and swings up to put the board on and off the ta...

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