Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use. This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8’ so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of ...
In response to some questions about how this pattern is made… I’m not sure if this is the only method, but here’s how I did it. Here’s the original project I posted: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53452 Hint: When you look at the board, long ways going left to right, every row is a different size, but every group of 2 rows are all the same size! Solution: First you rip strips like you would for a regular end grain board, but in a progression of widths from l...
My significant other and I decided it would be neat to have some sort of way to track the little ones good behavior, so we came up with the Reward Board. The children will have pieces (whatever they choose to be) that have dowels in the back. Each good deed will leave them closer to the star on the right. Once they get there they can exchange for a prize or continue to save for a bigger prize (this is kept track by little stars that go in the three holes to the left of their name). ...
This blog will show how I make a 12” bowl blank from 1 BF of lumber. Cut a 12”x12”x3/4” square and draw an X from corner to corner to find the middle. Using a compass draw a circle in the middle of the board the size you want the bottom of the bowl to be. In this case around 4”. Draw concentric circles spaced the thickness of the board (in this case 3/4”) Drill 1/8” holes at 45 degrees on the 4 inner circles to insert a scroll saw blad...
When mentioning that Chinese woodworking does not use glue I always get the question how to edge-joint without glue. On a recent trip to Southern China I had the opportunity to see a very nice example on what it looks like. The Perl River Delta (roughly the triangle spanned by Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Macau) is quite pleasant in Winter but extremely hot and humid in Summer. Since electricity is quite expensive people there tend to use the AC orders of magnitude less than in the US. This pu...
I found time to get some shop time, and wanted to get back on track and get this project going (hard to do after a long pause). last time around I was milling the lumber, when my planer broke down on me in the middle. I have then milled some boards with hand planes, and fixed my planer, but at this point, I was a bit confused what was milled already, what thicknesses, and how much material do I have (more of a do I have enough? curiosity). I still had to mill the apple lumber and add it as...
OK, so now that the kitchen challenge is all over, I guess it’s a good time to post a blog regarding kitchen items … or… hold on… um – oops. too late. Oh well, I guess I’ll blog this anyways. So, the plan is to make a bread board. for the time being, the design shall remain unseen and will reveal in details as this blog series will progress. The board is primarily made of hard maple that I am recovering from bowling alley floors (I still have about ha...
So some important details I have not mentioned yet. The routed groove: There is 2 ½” inches from the front of the case to the groove. The top of the groove bends in ½” Heat Shields:Use aluminum for protection. I purchased a 24×6” piece and cut it in half. I sprayed it with white epoxy appliance spray paint then mounted it with 3M’s Super 77 spray adhesive. Shelf:Install in coordination with your heat shields. This put my shelf 12” down from the top. Electrical...
After building the mock up, here is the parts list: Case:(2) sides – ¾” maple/plywood combo (46 ½ x 7 ½”)(1) top – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) bottom – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) shelf – ¾ plywood (13×5 ¼”)(1) back – ¼” plywood (46 ½ x 14 ½”) Ironing Board:(1) ironing board – ¾” MDF (42 ¼ x 12”) the last 13” are tapered down to a 4 1/2” circle (see pic below with cottage cheese container)(1) board support – ¾” MDF (12×11 ½”) rounded – see pic below(1) slid...
So I know I need to work out the sliding mechanism. 3 goals here: 1. Make sure the components fit into the space I’m allocating for it.2. Ensure all the pieces work and it is easy to slide up and down.3. Make sure the ironing board is level in the down position. Here are all the components (minus the door which I will build as part of the Murphy bed complex). I built a wall (16” stud mockup) and starting assembling the pieces I had cut from my measurements in post #1...
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