In this video I finish all the detail work of the cheese board. Using hand planes I get everything flattened. Then using a router table I rounded all the edges over and also cut a radius on all the corners. I wanted a way to hang this and drilled a 1 3/8” hole in the corner of the board. Next was hand forging a cheese slicer that was a learning lesson. I have never created an eye on an object, but think it turned out well. Let me know your thoughts! Don't forget to visit my channel f...
I wanted to create a cheese board, but didn’t want it to be “normal”. I wanted to give it an extra touch and decided that I would hand forge a slicer for it. In this video I got everything roughed out and glued up. Hand forged slicer will be out 4-9-17. Subscribe to see all the latest.
[Above] With the fingerboard otherwise finished, it’s time to cut the fret slots. This is actually the most important part of the whole process as the position of each fret makes the difference between musical instrument and a nice wall hanging. I looked up 3 separate fret calculators online and they all gave me the same answers. Using milimeters and my true to life meter stick, I marked the location of each fret on the wood, starting from the nut end. [Above] I’m us...
This is a must have for any handtool shop. It helps keep everything squared up for easy joint assembly.
Cheap tools (except for the Starrett combination square – left over from my metal fabrication days) are getting the job done for now. My saw cuts are getting better. Fairly square – they need to be since I haven’t dug out my jack plane and my block plane needs sharpening, and I don’t have a solid place to hold anything down yet. I’m using my Swiss Army knife to mark my cut-lines and putting a shallow kerf line on three (or sometimes four) sides befo...
Here is the remainder of the yellow pine that I need for my workbench. I had decided to give this thing legs and a skirt (hmm, sounds bad I know – hey maybe it’s a Scottish bench? LOL). The 2 X 12 was for the skirts on the front and the back, and the 2 X 8’s were for leg stretchers. I had 6 pieces of center ripped 2 X 10’s left over from making the top that I could use to make the legs. Still deciding whether to make a regular workbench or stay with my original plan of...
I ended up gluing inside my apartment where it was warmer. Ice and snowoutside. It is wide enough now that it won’t fit inside the glue box anyway. All 12 boards glued up. I think that I will add 2 more to make it 21” wide. Finally got a decent picture of all 14 boards glued up. Now to find help carrying it down to the garage when the weather turns nicer. It weighs over a hundred pounds. Not bad.
Here is what I did yesterday: made a long box to keep the wood and glue warm while curing. Everything I needed was laying close at hand – literally! I had four old closet doors that I used as shelves a long time ago that were standing in the corner. I had used a couple of them as a flat work place to start gluing up the boards for my slab. I found 8 little metal angle braces with screws that I had bought a while back and never used. It is 78” long (my 72” boards fit j...
Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #3: Glueing up pairs of boards and then glueing up quads
This is the first two boards glued together the night before this picture. I have taken the bolts out and everything looks solid. Time will tell. This first one was probably the worst for glue coverage as I was in a hurry – it has been too long since I glued boards together. I keep thinking that if I didn’t hurry, the glue would set up and I’d have to do everything over again. But I think it will still be OK. I used plenty of glue on both sides and the only part I’...
Using some 3-1/2” bolts to glue up two boards at a time. It is easier to keep everything square and straight this way. Also there’s no rush just gluing two boards together. The holes are 5/8” so that when I get ready to glue up the 6 sets of paired laminations, I can use the 3/8’ threaded rod – hopefully the holes line up well enough.
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