I built this table for Summers Woodworking contest. I used an old ratty 2×4 stud from a demolition project. I milled enough pieces from the one 2×4 for 2 of these tables, but have only had time to complete the first so far. I have been thinking about my design tendencies lately and wanted to break out of the mold a bit with this one. I usually build tables with a structural apron that secures the top, but I decided to try to make the top structural in this case instead. I lik...
Well, here it is almost 10 months since I’ve done any work on this project. It’s mostly because I was taking a night class in preparation for the Nursing program this fall, and on top of it, my Uncle has introduced me to fly fishing which has occupied almost all of my free time in the spring and summer so far. ...Since these panels are solid wood, to account for movement, I finished the panels before gluing the case up so that none of the panels will have unfinished edges during t...
Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22” length of the plane). Post some more pics tomo...
Two questions for the woodworkers who are also chemists: I have some thick CA glue, so thick that I can no longer use it. Now I know that I can add acetone as a thinner to normal thick CA glue to make thin/thinner CA glue, but can I also add acetone to the thickened thick CA glue to reconstitute it? I have already tried this and have used the results on some jigs, but my concern is more whether this reconstituted CA glue will have its full strength, such that is is suitable for real proj...
I was trying to find a good article/link about popping the grain in black walnut but didn’t find one that really explained it for me. There are many articles/links dealing with maple though. As luck would have it, our woodworkers club in association with the local adult education was going to host a few classes on finishing. These classes were mainly dealing with “old school” finishing techniques including French polish. Although not actually going all the way through th...
Oil-based finishes are typically the first type of finish we confront as woodworkers, be it straight oil or a can polyurethane. Although they are all derived from oil, these finishes can vary widely in terms of application method, durability, and maintenance. The key to understanding these finishes is to understand their ingredients. With that foundation in your tool belt, you can start looking at ingredients lists instead of brand names and labels, and you’ll know exactly what to ex...
Recently, I asked Guild members to help me select a finish for my new wall-hanging tool chest. We had the standard options including water-based poly, shellac, lacquer, oil-based poly, and oil & wax. Although water-based poly won with 27% of the votes, there was a very vocal minority (you know who you are lol) who wanted to see the oil & wax finish. So this resulted in a number of discussions about oil & wax and what kind of value this finish has to a woodworker. Personally, I...
Not a drinker, but I still appreciate the form of champagne glasses. I had a chunk of completely unsplit European olive from my pile of blanks, about the right length and diameter when turned to cylindrical to let me try my hand at something beyond plates and bowls, even though I’ve far from mastered them yet. I put the block between centers, turned it cylindrical, then swapped the head center for my Oneway Talon chuck, and used the tail center to support it a bit as I carved the out...
From all the feedback I got on my end grain finishing problem, Kaleo had the biggest word (oxidization) so I think he’s right. :^) However, I couldn’t bring myself to apply his solution, which was to sand the box down and then to put a finer grit on the end grain. Actually, my wife instantly vetoed any solution which involved removing the finish I already had on it. She loves the box, and isn’t concerned about the flaws. But I had to do something. So here’s what I d...
Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link. http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1599 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1624 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries