There are a number of different factors that should be considered in saw blade selection. Decent quality is essential or you’re sunk from the beginning. The saw’s end performance is largely determined by proper setup and blade selection. You don’t need to spend big bucks to get a good blade, but more expensive blades typically increase your chances of getting good quality. As with many things, there are often a variety of choices that each have merit, so consider what’s best for your situatio...
so just like every other woodworker at one point (what’s up with the other every other woodworkers is beyond me…) I was researching and learning about ways to sharpen my chisels, planes, and other blade tools in the shop. Since I am the weekend warrior at this point, and I do not need to resharpen my tools THAT often, nor THAT much, I figure that I can do without any expensive powertools (there are several of those on the market) to sharpen blades and I dont really have the spa...
Yes it’s cheap, and most of the time it will warp as soon as it is removed from the stack, but it can also be dangerous. Acording to an employee at Owl Hardwood in Lombard, IL, there is an instance where metal was found between the plys. The consumer that bought it found what appeared to be a utility knife blade while he was ripping the sheet on a table saw and in doing so, destroyed his blade. No coments if the person was injured, but I would not want to be around when pieces of ca...
Hey everyone, It was suggested that I start a discussion on how to find and harvest burls. Please give your input also. I don’t deal with straight grain that often. I cut and sell burls for a living so here is what I know. It is illegal to harvest a burl without permission. of course if it is on your own property you can give yourself permission. What I do is put an ad on Craig’s list saying I want your burls. Most people don’t know what burls are. So you don’t get that many calls....
Updated 1/16/12 I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sidesThe difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open. Here is how its done: Use the same pa...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
Work(shop) in Progress #7: New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511
So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due! Actually I was planning on working my the Bead Box, but wanted to fine tune the table saw, and ‘get it done’ first, and so, the plan was to use the 5/8” phenolic (not phenolic plywood) panel that I got (I got a 1-3/8” phenolic panel to use as a router table top, and while at it, picked up some ‘lighter’ thinner panels as well, for inserts, plates, etc). I figured – I already have it, and might as wel...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
I mentioned in one of my project post where I pictured a small hand plane that I made in my shop that I also make the irons and sharpening stones. I of course make the wood too, since I have a sawmill. Others showed interest in more details, so here they are. I did not know where to start. I am starting with a honing stone I “made”. It did not work out exactly as planned. It is a very good stone and I will use it for honing razors personally and in my business (I run a small sh...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1482 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1506 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 240 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- shipwright - 203 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 197 entries
- stefang - 186 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 177 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries