Just some photos I took tonight that I thought I would share so you could see some of the braces from the previous blog post side by side. 12” Lion and 12” North Bros 2100 Yankee 12” Yankee and 12” Millers Falls 731 Holdall 12” Lion and 12” Holdall Millers Falls Lion Chuck and a no name, typical brace Chuck 12” Lion and 12” Yankee Chucks 12” Yankee and 12” Holdall 12” Lion and 12” Holdall
Thought I would share the list of bit braces that I am tracking. The list has been compiled from a variety of sources on the web. If you have suggestions of high quality braces that are not on the list, please let me know. North Brothers Yankee braces, including the 2100, 2100A, 2101, and 2101A series. 8”, 10”, 12”. 14”. Example of 6” versions are rare but known. Whimble braces exist. North Brothers are better Quality than Stanley. North Brothers was acqu...
I’ve been buying my router bits from MLCS for years and never had a problem with one. Until today, that is. Received in the mail today a solid carbide pattern routing bit. Mounted it in the router table and started to do the finish work on the guide holes in the cheese press I’m building. All was going well, then the bit suddenly caught a little and made an odd noise. Slap the emergency stop, check the setup, can’t find anything wrong. Start it back up and continue working. ...
Finish off the simple built router table from last week with a table fence that cost just around $10.
My new 1.5 inch flush trim router bit from Whiteside Router bits was purchased with a generous amount of glue covering it (to prevent rust, and from cutting yourself). How might I get this glue off?
I can’t put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess. My first introduction with the brace was way back in ….2009 (ok maybe not that long ago). I was sitting in a bar, and caught her in the corner of my eye. there was something about her…. oh wait… wrong movie… OK – swap reel… I was dropping the trash at the transfer...
So I know I need to work out the sliding mechanism. 3 goals here: 1. Make sure the components fit into the space I’m allocating for it.2. Ensure all the pieces work and it is easy to slide up and down.3. Make sure the ironing board is level in the down position. Here are all the components (minus the door which I will build as part of the Murphy bed complex). I built a wall (16” stud mockup) and starting assembling the pieces I had cut from my measurements in post #1...
Up to now, things were relatively easy. Now the actual work was going to start. To make the drawers, I decided to use Poplar. However, I did something I would now change. I purchased 4/4 of the stuff with the idea that I would resaw in half on my bandsaw. In retrospect, I should have purchased 8/4 and cut it into thirds. After resawing, planing and sanding, the boards were much thinner than I had hoped. The next decision was how to construct the drawers themselves. I have an Akeda Dovetai...
Today, I bit the bullet and tried out my 45 degree lock-miter bit to make the four-sided quarter-sawn white oak 4” x 4” legs. I outsmarted myself by trimming the edges at 45 degrees. Unbeknownst to me, the router bit needs all the meat it can grab to make the “tongues”. As a result, I have very little “lock” in my lock-miter. I have just enough to register the corner, but I’ve lost about half of my glue surface. Sigh… The good news is that...
So today, I cleaned up the shop a bit and started on the template to make the back legs. Based on my AutoCAD drawing, I laid it out on some 1/4” masonite (hardboard). I even remembered to make it longer to affix the ends together. I cut it out and faired it as best I could. It’s almost perfect (you can spot 1/1000” off) when sighting down it. It looks pretty darn good from the side. I then double-sided taped it to a roughed out blank and using my pattern-followin...
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