By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) This VIDEO isn’t a tutorial. I just wanted to keep y’all up tonight with thoughts of the Tung oil falling into the pores of this beautiful beech jointer plane that I just finished building. (Click here to view the original blog post). I also wanted to announce that I just finished filming a DVD with Bill Anderson on how to build this traditional 18th century jointer plane from scratch, with traditional hand tools. Roy Underhill invited...
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
This one doesn’t see much use because it is fairly specialized. The bed angle is 60 degrees, highly useful in certain applications. Completely useless in most others. :-) That’s too bad, because it is a nice fit in the hand. It tends to be hard to adjust. Tapping the iron to advance is fine, but tapping the back of the plane is just as likely to either do nothing or loosen the wedge as it is to retract the iron. The applied shock when you tap it at the back doesn’t me...
I use this one as a smoother for some woods. It is short-ish for a smoother at 8 1/2”, but does its job quite well. Has a nice weight to it in use – not too light and not too heavy. Feels very solid. Made from wenge, with beech stripes and an ipe sole. Finish is tung oil and wax The bed is 50 degrees and the iron is another of the LV wooden plane irons. I cut it down with a Dremel and about 10 of those tiny cutting wheels. —Mark Kornell, Kornell ...
Conceptually, a plane is a fairly simple device. It holds some kind of cutter that can be passed over a piece of wood to effect a cut. To work well, it needs to hold the cutter securely, and may have fences, guides or stops to help control the path of the cut. And even those fences, guides and stops aren’t there to help with making the cut, just to ensure consistency. So that’s it. Hold the cutter securely. In a Krenov-style plane, there are a small number of pieces that factor...
My first experience with handplanes were two 70’s era Stanleys (the block with a red lever cap, and a Handyman smoother) I “rescued” from a drawer in my dad’s garage three years ago. He had a brief flirtation with woodworking around the time I was 5, and the planes had obviously been unused since. The climate here is pretty dry, so there was only minor surface rust to deal with. I cleaned them up, worked on the soles a bit, and without really knowing what I was doing, turned the smoother into...
The leg vise chop’s wood is beech (I just have one big thick beech board and so I use it when I need some hardwood). .First some rough cuts: .Then cleaning up: (you can see here template I used to mark curves of the chop) (and this is my cleanup kit) .Ready for parallel guide mortise: .Parallel guide mortise: first saw cut then cleaning with the chisel (and a block of wood as a guide). .Dry fit: .Drawboring: .Closeups of drawboring results:...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1742 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 105 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 79 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1767 entries
- dbhost - 418 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- mafe - 304 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 246 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 220 entries
- robscastle - 218 entries
- Dave Rutan - 213 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 193 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 190 entries