All right! Last time I was done with the marquetry and I had done the mastic on them. I glued them down with Hide Glue and cleaned with called water the paper that hold the pieces from the front with Hot Hide Glue. When all the paper is gone with just cold water, I use one of those green scrubs to clean of the rest of the glue. As there is never a project without at least one f**k up, one of my marquetry panel did slide during veneering. Fortunately, the use of...
After almost a month away in Europe, London and France, I am back and working on the boxes again. It was really nice to go back home as I haven’t been able to do so for 4 years. It was also nice to be back, through away the jacket and sweater, an put on the flip flops. Well, regarding the boxes. When I came back I put the already cut bone leaves in green dye and while waiting to feel up the holes in the marquetry, I started working on the inside of the boxes....
In the above video I show a simple tutorial on how to make a wooden straight edge for traditional woodworking. A straight edge is an essential measuring tool used when flattening & straightening your boards, and a perfect beginner’s project to hone your traditional hand tool woodworking skills! WOODEN STRAIGHT EDGE vs. METAL STRAIGHT EDGE Why would traditional woodworkers want to use a wooden straight edge when they can purchase precision-ground metal straight edge...
I was feeling a bit under the weather yesterday and not quite myself. It was nothing to worry about, and I think it was just a passing thing as today I feel much more 'normal'. Fortunately, it doesn't happen often, as I accomplished very little in the way of work. I suppose though that a good rest was needed as it seemed to have done the trick and today should be a great day. As a result, I have no progress reports on what I am working on. I guess that goes ...
By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) This VIDEO isn’t a tutorial. I just wanted to keep y’all up tonight with thoughts of the Tung oil falling into the pores of this beautiful beech jointer plane that I just finished building. (Click here to view the original blog post). I also wanted to announce that I just finished filming a DVD with Bill Anderson on how to build this traditional 18th century jointer plane from scratch, with traditional hand tools. Roy Underhill invited...
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
This one doesn’t see much use because it is fairly specialized. The bed angle is 60 degrees, highly useful in certain applications. Completely useless in most others. :-) That’s too bad, because it is a nice fit in the hand. It tends to be hard to adjust. Tapping the iron to advance is fine, but tapping the back of the plane is just as likely to either do nothing or loosen the wedge as it is to retract the iron. The applied shock when you tap it at the back doesn’t me...
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