We got a little snow in Arkansas today, so I finally had an opportunity to get a bit more done. He does look better with a tail, just like a few of you suggested! I was able to use an 1/8” dowel for joining it to the body and I feel better about it being more solid. Rather than just butting it together with the dowel as a tenon of sorts, I outlined the base of the tail on the rump and then carved a hole for it to fit into. A little carving and sanding after the glue dried made this ...
This classic box is for a friend’s son, when he turns 13. My next step is to spray on an amber shellac finish.
I got the head finished and glued on this weekend! It turned out ok…ears may be a bit long?You may notice that the ears are slightly darker…...they were soaked with the thin CA glue after carving, to strengthen this delicate area. Pretty sturdy now. Carving is “subtractive-sculpture” in that you take away wood to create. And a lot of what you “see” is what is also the negative spaces created. The shadows that are created give depth and create ill...
I quickly discovered I had way too much wood for this head, much too wide! So I spent a lot of time whittling it down to a better fit! I may have to shrink it a bit more, but I am still mainly trying to get the rough shapes. Better too much than not enough I suppose. I did add some difficulty to the carving by choosing to do the mane like I have. With a mane that just lays down on the neck, you can just round over and shape the neck, then carve your hair out of that. Since this sti...
Finished the simple details on the saddle and have the horn stuck in place temporarily. It may need to be cut down a bit more. I would normally do the stirrups, but you can’t see many saddle details when the rider is mounted. I used a stoning technique on the cowboy’s chaps to try and give the effect of angora or goat-skin chaps….may need to do it a bit heavier. “Stoning” is a process of using a dremel or other rotary tool with an abrasive wheel or cyl...
He’s starting to look like a horse now, with the muscle groups indicated. I spent quite a bit of time getting the spacing better between the legs and defining the groups of muscles around the legs. A technique I like is to carve the lines and then to sand them so that you get a flowing muscle look instead of something defined by a line cut into the surface. I like to use my veiners for this and then carve or sand the edges back up to the center. Here are a few pictures. When ...
I’ve had an old heavy barn beam, for some time now, and have wanted to fabricate a couple ornamental carved brackets to hold it up. Here is the start of the first bracket. It is modeled after an Atlantes which is an architectural adornment.
Doesn’t seem like 6 days have passed, but the calendar does not lie. I have a lot to catch up with.First order of the day was to edge join the pieces I would need to have wider- like for parts of the stand legs and the base of the harp.These Bessey clamps are the best.Then I needed to cut the angled sides. This was the most dreaded job, and the first rip (with the grain) on the table saw (my second least-favorite power tool). Took most of a morning to assemble the tool and then to figur...
Sorry for such a long delay on this piece. After I had this piece done I decided that it needed something so I added the chip carved folding wings which can changed it from a 24” square to a 36” diamond. I cut the folding leaves so the inner rosette could be seen when closed. I spent 8 hours cutting, fitting, and hinging the walnut to the panels. I have somewhere around 300-400 hours in this piece.
Hey you LumberJocks, I find myself in the unfortunate position of needing to sell off some wood, so I thought I’d see if any LumberJocks would be interested. What wood does he have, you might ask? Let me list a bit of it for you. Basswood($2.00 per board foot): Great carving stock. A couple hundred board feet in many different sized boards. 4” X 4” X 78”, 2” x 9” x 48”, 4” x 8” X 78” Clear redwood($3.00 per board foot)...
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