A few weeks ago, I bought 5 Disston No. 4 saws at an auction. One is a pre-1940 type and is the only one that can really be considered to be a desirable, vintage saw. The other 4 are HK Porter types from the 1950’s or newer. Below are a few pictures that show the general condition of the newer saws. They are generally in poor shape, teeth are missing, there is varnish/epoxy in spots, the plates are wavy and maybe kinked, and the teeth look like someone tried to use them as hacksaws....
I have been reading blogs and articles recently, by people who make their own hand saws and decided to make one of my own for no good reason. I made a good heavy duty twelve inch 11 tpi rip filed back saw. I made the back out of a heavy piece of lawn border,bluing it with a propane torch and motor oil. I made the blade out of an old wrecked hand saw that had a kink that I did not feel was worth trying to pound out. I watch for these at flea markets because wrecked saws are an inexpensive ...
Picked up a S Biggin & Sons backsaw on the e place, it is in transit as we speak. Can’t find much info on this company or saw. I want to know how rare it is and if it can be dated. Any thoughts or critique of the saw? Thanks.
A few weeks back I was in my local Habitat for Humanity ReStore. I saw a 24” long backsaw resting among the saws. I put it back…. I have a longer and older Disston. Then on another shelf I saw the Craftsman adjustable miter box. I knew just by looking that the saw was the mate to it. The saw had a price of $5.00 on it and the miter box sticker said $12. I smiled all the way to the counter, then all the way home. Cleaning, sanding, priming, painting, scraping, flap sandin...
After reading many threads and blogs about saw restoration I got to wondering what one of these things cost. Then I stumbled on a Disston 4b at the back a storage shed in a box marked with the name of a very old storage customer on it. We own a boat storage business and when people leave they tend to leave a lot of stuff. We pack it up and put it away in case someone remembers they left something. This box had been put away many years ago by my father-in-law and obviously forgotten. ...
Stumpy gives a lesson in hand saws while he builds one of the most useful fixtures of the hand tool shop- the traditional sawbench (at least his own tricked out version of it). He teaches you about backsaws from dovetail to carcass to sash to tenon; crosscut and rip, tooth counts and more. Then puts it all to work cutting dovetails and draw boring tenons on a sawbench with more uses than… well, you’ll have to watch and see… The Old Timey Workshop is a monthly podcast prod...
So here is the before of the S. Biggin & Sons – Sheffield Backsaw I picked up for next to nothing. So far all I can find is its From 1852 to 1856. So it took some handle work. I didn’t try to match the old and new. I didn’t have any apple, and I kind of like the “I’ve been fixed better than new” look anyhow. And after some soaking in evapo-rust, sanding and more sanding, some wire brushing and some polishing it came out like thi...
Aimed at those new to saw sharpening, this instructional video is 2 1/4 hours long and covers the theory, the tools and the practice of sharpening western saws. You get to look over my shoulder as I sharpen four saws – two backsaws and two hand saws. I’ll explain the saw sharpening process and how you apply it to different scenarios. I really hope you find it useful. As to the production quality, I’ve done the best I could. I had to record it outside, so there is a bi...
When I sat down to write this blog, my PC was asleep. I pressed a key and it immediately sprang into life so that I could begin typing. I tend to write my blogs in MS Word before pasting them into LJs and as I type, I receive feedback on my grammar and spelling and change my text accordingly. Hand tools are no different to MS Word really. Lying on a bench or hanging in a tool cabinet, they are nothing more than inanimate objects. Pick them up and use them for their intended purpose and they p...
Top joins the sides with half-blinds, so let’s clamp up and get started. Mark and cut the tails. No dovetail jigs… It’s for strength, doesn’t have to be perfect as a shop joint. Chop the waste. Gauge setting for the ‘inset’ of the pinboard, then balance the tail board to tranfer tail lines: I did place a straightedge alongside the setup to ensure the layoit ot the two pieces stayed ‘square.’ Sawing pins...
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