Today's post will be a quick one. I just wanted you to all know that the patterns for the new projects are completed and listed on the site. We had quite a few new items this time and I am just going to post them quickly here for you all.Keith had several new word art patterns and a new cross pattern. The word art patterns are as follows: SLDK539 - Proud Woodworker, Scroller, Artist and Teacher Plaque Patterns. (ALL included in one set!) SLDK545 - Courage, Strength and Faith Pattern...
I spent the day yesterday finishing up my three new patterns as well as taking the photos for the pattern. It filled up most of my day (along with my usual errands and post office trip) and by the time I was finished, it was nearly bed time. I am going to be working on the pattern packets today, and hopefully by later on in the day we will send a newsletter out letting everyone know that the site is fully updated. As usual, it took a bit longer than I expected, but the results I feel wer...
I didn't post this weekend because I was in the middle of several different projects. We are hoping to do our site update this week and I had some ideas for new scroll sawing patterns that I wanted to work on. I did that along with working on painting the first piece of furniture that Keith built for our reorganizing project. If you remember, the first piece was a printer stand that would also hold the bodies of our two computers and also the modem and router: Since this is ...
First I made the pieces I needed. None of them is exactly. Here you can see them: I started sanding the botom exactly. Therefore I mostly glue a piece of paper on the part that has to be sanded. Below the situation on the disk sander: Then I glue the back of the cabin and the dashpanel to the bottom. This two pieces both are over sized: After the glue has dried again I sand the pieces exactly according to the bottom; Now it,s time to glue the oversized engine hood on it: And...
Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecul...
To make the top six ribbon sapele offcuts from my wood supply shop were edge glued, planed, and joined. Then I used the template with a 3” diameter ring centered and carpet taped to my router base to trim the jigsawed oval shape to the final dimension. First I routed a classic ogee on the top edge and put a 3/8” round over on the back, my wife preferred the ogee to be on the down side, so the rounded side became the top!I put Daleys ‘Benite’ to seal all the surfaces an...
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...
As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply water-borne acrylics—none are really lacque...
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