Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
Intro: Hello to all and welcome to the first installment of Intarsia Basics. Before we can start cutting we need to select the wood we want to use and get our pattern ready. Wood Choices: I prefer to start with stock that is one inch thick because that gives you a lot of depth that you can work with. It will require a little more sanding on some areas but it will help to give your piece a 3D look. It is your choice if you prefer to stain your wood to achieve the colors or use exot...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
Updated 1/16/12 This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box. I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you. The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box. Chapter 10 will discuss this style. The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop stra...
Hi Everyone, this is my first time trying to do a blog. So please bear with me, I’ll do my best!I have had a lot of request to do a blog about my rings, I do 2 kinds of rings. The Lamination style and the Bentwood style, this blog is on the Lamination style. This ring is made out of Cocobolo, Brass and has a Mother- of-Pearl inlay. I start out with 3 thin squares of Cocobolo, about a 1.5”, I have a thin sheet of brass that I cut about the same size as the wood. I lay them out to o...
I recently finished working on a cutting algorithm app for the iPad and iPhone called Smart Cutter, and wanted to share the app with every one hoping get some feedback from carpenters and wood workers. Smart Cutter finds the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper with minimum scrap. It employs a state of the art algorithm to generate the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper, wood, cloth or any other material, with minimum waste. Whether y...
This class will show you the steps that I took to build this really beautiful side chair designed by Mr. Kevin Rodel. Here’s a photo of just some of my chairs sitting around our kitchen table. I’ll be sharing several good things (and a few bad things) that evolved down in my shop while building ten of these gorgeous chairs. Hopefully you will walk away with a handful of tips that will make your chair building session a much more pleasant experience. I learned an unbelievabl...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
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