Finally I got it done and shipped it off to the customer. He wont get it in his hands until next week, so I will post his impressions when I hear back. I hope its what he wants!!! TIP:Some of you may know about this but many will not. This is my secret to quickly fine sand the box prior to spraying lacquer. I hand sanded down to 220 and then I finish up with green nylon pads. These were bought at the local dollar store. Guess how much? Thats right, a whole dollar. You can buy similar pads ...
This is why its been awhile since my last post. One of the problems with shaping wood to this extent is any flaws show up. Figured Bigleaf Maple, aka Western Maple, Oregon Maple, Acer macrophyllum, can have pits, bark inclusions, etc… Well, I found a few during the final shaping. I knew I was getting pretty close to maximum depth in one corner, but I couldnt leave that little black spot glaring at me. Then I was all the way through and exposing the bloodwood below, nothing ...
The handle.I did not like how the handle was looking, it appeared to lack any of the swirling grain that the top inset panel has. That happens sometimes after shaping, the good stuff ends up on the floor. Also… if you look close, you will notice in the picture below that I sanded too deep into the right corner of the handle and exposed the spline! Oops! So I made a new one from Black Palm Wood, a first time for me. The black color ties in with the Wenge corner splines, plus I love ...
After glueing in the medallion, I went ahead and sanded it flush with the lid. I did this to be sure it looked ok. I was worried about chipped out areas below the rim showing up after the sanding and it would be much easier to replace the panel at this stage before the entire box was shaped. It would make aligning the jig for recutting the recess less of a nightmare. But it looked fine. The handle is a piece of cut off from the Maple medallion. I simply slotted a mortise in it and the lid ...
This shows the medallion getting glued in place. I decided to do a loose fit between the medallion and lid on this one due to the fact that I just couldn keep the bloodwood from chipping out even with a new cutter and climb cutting. I have done this before, filling the gap with black epoxy for a shadow line effect. I am using spacers to even out the gap. Before fitting the medallion I had ran a router around the inside of the box and cut a 3/8” x 3/8” rabbit for the lid to ...
I cut the lid a little oversize and made a jig to route out for the maple center panel (medallion). And after. I always make a test piece to size the real insert to. And here is the maple insert prior to rounding the corners which I do by eye on a disc sander and final fit with a sanding block a little at a time. Stay tuned
I carefully laid out the compartments on a sheet of plywood to be sure it would give the customer the room required. I then marked my cuts out for the body on the only piece of bloodwood I had left. I cut the board to the width of all four sides and slotted a kerf for the bottom. Here is a test piece of 1/4” ply. I mitered the sides and then cut slots for splines to add strength and dress it up a little. I used maple and wenge for the splines. This is how the spline...
This blog will show progress on an ArtBox I am building for a client. In September I received an email from a gentleman named Sean asking if I was interested in making a custom box to display his wrist watch collection. I said I typically dont do commission work for several reasons, but if he wanted to send me details I would look it over before deciding.We worked out the bugs and I agreed to make a box to hold eight watches. The color of the wood and the grain were important as well as...
Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Updated 1/16/12 I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sidesThe difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open. Here is how its done: Use the same pa...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1542 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 94 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1567 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 269 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 170 entries