I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they’re identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those. I didn’t have too much trouble with wood grain, ...
At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It’s pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an “authentic” Stickley finish. While waiting for the glue to cook, I fashioned what can only be described as an impromptu fuming tent. Even one of my neighbors came over to see what monstrosity I was building, as they’re usually ...
So, today I ran over to Plywood & Lumber Sales in Oakland, CA and purchased about 100 board feet of quartersawn white oak. I finally have enough lumber to do the dining table. I’m going to start with the top and get that finished so I can bring it into the dining room and set it on top of my old table. This will get rid of the MDF table top we’ve been using for months. It’ll also let me use the MDF for more important things like jigs. I also abhor the tablecloth we&...
This is a precis of what happened over about a 2 week period… A while ago I came up with what I thought was an interesting design for a lamp base.I was in Lisbon a few weeks ago, and ran across some hand-made paper.Ah ha – fate!I did some sketches, messed about with some bits of wood, did some drawings, and set to.For some reason best known to someone else, I decided to start with the top bit first.It being based on interlocking struts, I prepared some oak strips, cut them to l...
Well, after three days in solitary, I decided to pop the the weasel. The different boards fumed to different tones, but I think with shellac and brown furniture wax, it’ll be just non-perfect enough for some charm. The wood putty had no tannins in it, so it’s almost white. Luckily, one corner is perfect, so that’ll be the one facing out. I tried my Dark Fumed Oak aniline dye, and it didn’t work on the putty either. I even brushed the liquid ammonia directly on...
I had a little more handwork to do on the Little Journey’s Bookstand. I fiddled with the tusks a bit. I originally sanded the piece to 400 but decided to sand to 220 this time. The loose tenons/tusks took forever to sand and detail. Fuming Time I have always wanted to try this. Two years ago I had a student whose dad owned a blueprint shop. He gave me a large bottle of super strength ammonia. I had bought an ammonia respirator in preparation for the job. I build a simple te...
So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang’s book “More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”, I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I “borrowed” the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template. I’m going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like Tre...
After letting the glue cure overnight, I took it out of the clamps and gave it a final hand sanding. Not too bad, but could be better. I think next time I’ll err on making the legs touch on the outside corners instead of a flat meeting. This caused some gappage that I filled with putty. Since our dog laid down by the tent, I figured it was time to fume. There’s no better time than the present. I carefully put the tent over the table and then propped them both up en...
When framing anything using glass or acrylic as the glazing, there should be an air gap of at least 1/8” between the art or object being framed and the inside surface of the glass. This is to prevent moisture, from the condensation that will almost certainly occur, from transferring to the framed item. A common way to accomplish this is to use two layers of matting between the glass and the artwork. Other ways include special plastic spacers or to use a secondary rabbet in the frame ...
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