Now that the drawer is complete, things are progressing at breakneck speed. Having cut the top to size, I attached the cleats and bored pilot holes in the sides for attachment later. I rubbed in the pre-assembled drawer guides and drawer runners … ... level with the drawer rail. I used a depth gauge to maintain level from front … ... to back. Just as I had excepted the first fitting of the drawer was off … just a bit too high on the right! I took the time to fashion ...
The legs are tapered, the drawbore pins are all set … the frame is standing on its own! With the drawer front fitted to the base … ... nice and smooth, and perfectly square (well, as perfectly square as any rectangle can be), it was on to the sides, back, and bottom pieces. I decided to re-saw a 3/4 inch thick pine board to make two 1/8 inch thick slats for the drawer bottom. I kerfed the sides and ends … ... to make easy work of the re-sawing. After a bit of work with ...
Although the drawknife quickly removed the waste along the tapers, the surface was left rough. Using a 1-1/2” chisel (honed to a 25° bevel) I pared the tapers to a flat surface, getting as close to the knife wall as I felt comfortable. After paring with the chisel, I set a block plane for a thin shaving and planed along the tapers, getting closer and closer, until the knife wall disappeared. Remember that nasty knot I discovered while ripping the leg pieces? Well … this was the best ...
With the tenons cut and fitted to their respective mortises, it’s time to taper the legs. I want the legs to taper down from 1-1/2” to 1-1/8” starting about 5” from the top. I marked an 1-1/8” square at the bottom of each leg. By the time I marked all the legs it started to turn dark … a storm was blowing in … ... and the shop quickly became as black as the inside of a cat! ... better call it a night! After a good night’s rain, I finished defining the 1-1/8” s...
What crazy weather we’ve been having in Atlanta. One week there’s ice all over everything with temperatures in the teens, and the next week we are all running around in shorts enjoying temperatures in the 70s. It’s a wonder we’re not all in the hospital! Taking advantage of the warm days, I decided to put in a few hours cutting the frame members to size and forming the tenons. First, I ripped the front, sides and back to the required 4-1/2” width. After jointing th...
Snuck in some time during working on the coffee table. Trimmed down the table top and cut the legs and apron rails to length. Since I was on a roll, I kept going and fitted out the mortise and tenon joinery. Not bad for my first time cutting mortise and tenons on a furniture project. Router with a double-edge guide setup (for stability) for the mortises Ironically I picked up this tip from Bosch Fitting the tenons into the mortises My new toy is peeking out from the corner
My first woodworking project was a pine coffee table with lumber from Lowes. The entire project was screwed together long before I even knew what a pocket hole was. Thankfully, that coffee table end up being commandeered by my daughter to be her craft table, and is filling it’s role well as a beater table. The vacuum of space in front of my couch needed an appropriate successor piece of furniture. I decided that I decided the next coffee table would be a piece of furniture built with pr...
After but a few distractions, my head is now back in the game! I spent a couple of hours squaring up the cherry legs with my No. 4 bench plane and No. 3 coffin smoother … ... turned out okay … nice and square … I never see light under the square when I point it to the rear of the shop (hmmm) ... ... and no twist … that I can see anyway! Once all squared-up, I mark off about an inch of waste at the top end of each leg and lay-out the various mortises for the drawer ...
Before jumping into the mortise and tenon joints I thought it a good idea to make sure my chisels have a proper edge. For this project I need a 3/8 mortise chisel, a 1/2” firmer chisel for the half blind dovetails, and a 1-1/2” bevel edge chisel for the tapered legs. A proper edge is actually quite simple. You need but two intersecting planes. Generally, the smaller the angle between the two planes, the sharper the edge and easier the cut. The smaller the angle, though, the less force it ...
I partially turned the bloodwood block today. I did that after attempting to fix the exposed end grain on the ambrosia maple bowl. For it I applied some wood filler. Then I sent it through several grits of sandpaper. i also made a small bottle of 1 pound cut of Zinsser sanding sealer by pouring an equal amount of denatured alcohol. With bowl I buffed on some carnauba wax. This photo was taken after I rubbed on sanding sealer and before buffying on the wax. This image is the blood...
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