I think you will be surprised how big the difference actually is.How big is the difference there between an electric chain saw and gasoline-powered.Which do you think is fastest in a sawmill? View on YouTube
A lot of my customers build guitars. To make this process a bit easier I build lot of products like these blanks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDDsCpewgWE Last week I decided to make a little video, thanks for watching…
After taking a brief break to begin building a sewing center for my wife, I finally had time to get back to the chess set that I’m making. There is a 30 minute video on my channel that does the detail for those interested. But I also did a 4 minute version – the link is here: http://youtu.be/mDWNgDEaaXw Hope you enjoy! This is great fun!
Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
Making progress – finished 4 bishops. The link to my YouTube video is here: http://youtu.be/U2gRbqZxhAo Amazing how much fun you can have learning something new! The Knights are next – sheesh – I have no idea how I’m gonna do those yet… Comments and especially suggestions from other turners are indeed welcome! James
What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecula...
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Finishes and their Compatibility Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for col...
Wash Coat #2: Waterborne Finish Coatings As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply...
Wash Coat #1: Finishing with Wash Coats I am starting to put together an article covering finishing and this will be part of the coverage but not just limited to preventing blotching as a wash coat will aid in a more consistent staining color. This will be updated as my thoughts are organized. This is only a small portion: A wash coat is a coat of thinned finish that’s applied to bare wood to partially seal the surface before a stain is applied. It reduces the amount of stain from so...
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