I am making a coffee table and so far I got my pieces for the base if the table. Basic techniques were used to cut these pieces such as the table saw, plainer and the jointer. These pieces will mainly be used for the base. After the base if assembled, the pieces for the dewars will be made. Then the table top will eventually be added on. These pieces include the legs of the table and the frame.
The dry assembly looked good, so I chamfered the ends of the through tenons, and glued up the table. -----Lapped dovetails secure the top stretchers. -----The half-lap joints and the lapped dovetails all came out flush.-----Then I cut the tops with a circle cutting jig and plunge router. I used a 1/4” spiral bit and cut the top free in multiple passes. -----The 1” thick top came out nice, with minimal sanding at the oscillating belt sander. I eased the edges with a 1/8”...
This is a series of videos showing how I made my sculpted coffee table for the Coffee Table Build-Off hosted by Neil Cronk of the Cronkwright Woodshop this past month. This is the project playlist I posted on my YouTube channel.
In my last entry, I finished by attaching the top as you can see in this picture: Before I attached the top, I roughly cut the end of the leg to size so I then had to blend the top and legs into one table. I used my spokeshave to create round-over where the route couldn’t reach. I used chisels to cut the bulk of the tenon and I then used rasps to blend everything together. Finally, I had to sand the entire table. Thankfully, I had access to a pneumatic sander which is ...
In this entry, I’ll cover some design and the construction process for the top. This blog series is not in chronological order but for the ease of reading, I’ll cover all of the top in a single entry as opposed to covering it in a few separate entries. As I wrote in my first entry, I decided to make the top more stable without making the top too thick. I call this “the spine”. The center section of my top is made from 8/4 maple and I decided to put a half-cove on ea...
In my last post, I covered the rationale for my design and how I made several cuts mostly on the bandsaw to make one base. I will now discuss in greater detail how I built the rest of the base including the legs and stretcher and how I did the glue up. I left off with this base: Although I made a very similar drawing on my second base none of the line remained after I made a few cuts on the bandsaw. Since I deviated a little bit from the plan, I decided to use the actual first base to c...
A few weeks ago, I decided to join the Coffee Table Build Off started by Neil Cronk. You can read more about his initiative here: http://www.cronkwrightwoodshop.com/coffee-table-build-off/ From the start, I wanted to design something incredibly challenging (at least challenging in the 21 days allowed for the build off). I knew from the start that I wanted my table to look “organic” with not many straight lines. Curvy might be a word to describe what I was aiming for. A bent laminated base ...
Life has thrown some pretty nasty hardballs at us this past year and a bit and my kids and I are starting to recover. We we’re sitting in our rec room (do people still call ‘em that? :-) and my daughter said it would be nice to have a coffee table in front of the TV. I’d been trying really hard to think of something we could all do together so I half jokingly said why don’t we build one. Lauren and Paul jumped on the idea. We got out the tape measure and use...
I’ve made good progress this week on the base for my coffee table. After splitting the larger chunk of wood down to size and doing some rough sanding, I decided to cobble together enough stuff for my router jig and set about getting ‘root’ side of this base leveled out. The router jig may not be the best tool for this procedure. I’ve seen guys work wonders with a steady hand and big chainsaw. But it does work well enough and it’s quieter than the chainsaw an...
This coffee table is built from maple milled out of 8/4 boards. I just did a very basic design using straight, clean lines. The top is made from glued up strips, a chamfered edge routed to soften the upper side and stained using Rust-oleum Ebony with a poly finish. I like pieces done in two-tone stain if contrasting woods are unavailable so I used Watco Danish Oil on the base. The base is put together using pocket-hole joinery thanks to the Kreg jig. Thanks for checking it out!...
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