Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove. For the purpose of this example I am using a couple pieces of pine. I am using the 1/4” Tongue and Groove irons, and have the depth on the tongue iron set as deep as it can go. The Groove depth stop is set to match this depth once the tongue has been cut. The #45 is set up with the short rods as opposed to the long rods. There is nothing stopping a person from using the long rods, I just prefer to use the short ones when I ...
Here is a little more progress on my build Installing the brackets on the bed posts: First I lay out the location of the Mortise with a mortising gauge. I need to get something better than this crappy Harbor Freight gauge but it does ok for now. Chisel out the ends of the mortise with a chisel. I start with my router plane set to full depth and work from one end back removing waste little by little. #71 Action shot! The smooth and crisp mortise is a beautiful thing. :-) ...
Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I’d make the first video for this blog series. In this blog entry, I will be using my Stanley #45 plane to cut a groove along the face of a board. For the purpose of this example I am using a scrap piece of pine. I am using a 1/2” cutter, and have the depth stop set up for 3/8”, as well as the fence 3/8” away from the edge of the cutter. I am using the second skate in addition to the main...
I bought a No. 45, but the cutters did not come with the boxes that were included at the original purchase, all those decades ago. Not wanting to spend a large amount of money for real boxes, I’ve opted to make my own reproductions. However, I wanted them to be as close to the original versions as possible. The astute reader will note that the No. 45 cutter boxes had graphics on them displaying the contents of each box. These tend to get destroyed over time and are very rare to be...
Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later. Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the “guts” of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. ...
Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They’re framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead? First the flat stock, ready to go. With the #45 set up and ready, an early key is to take multiple, shallow passes. Here’s a scratch pass: Start on the end of the piece, taking multiple passes ...
Alright, this was the most awesome estate sale I have ever seen (out of three…). I guess I will continue this series with what led me to go check out the sale. Here’s the picture which made me stop by. The description of the estate sale says how there is an unbelievable amount of hand tools and power tools. This picture doesn’t do justice in regards to how much stuff this guy had. He must of had some sort of combo plane infatuation. I picked up these two Stanley No. 4...
Well here is my latest sled design. This sled is a combination of many sleds that i have seen in the past. One sled that really influenced it, is the super sled by john nixon at eagle lake woodworking. I like the t track on the sled part (the sheet part) but i am going to use real t track. I also liked the t track on top of the fence, which i incorporated, but it stops there. This sled should be able to do just about everything. You can cut 45’s ( blade tilting at 45 deg ) and every o...
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