Sorry this has taken a while, I have had a few distractions lately. This first photo shows the rippers in place for a trial fitting before a final sanding and oiling. The parts need to be oiled separately and allowed to dry before assembly to prevent sticking. This next photo shows the ripper bar and how the teeth are attached. Note that the ripper teeth are in dark Walnut and that each one has 2 parts. 1 is the ripper itself and in the front of that is a very small wedge also from dark ...
As an engineer I’m always curious about claims of big improvements. When it comes to turning tool steel, there are a lot of marketing claims that some of the newer tool steels can get 3x to 10x more cutting time vs standard M2 HSS between sharpenings. There’s also plenty of users claiming the same type of extended life. Thing is, none of the claims by users or companies are supported by factual, objective data. Before I spent my hard earned $ on tools costing 2-5x more than common M2 HS...
4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry Touch sanded with 400 grit and soapy water… Wiped down with water, dry cotton rag, and then a quick wipe with lacquer thinner Space ace reporting for duty… 10, 9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1…......
OK I am back, I left off with the activity needing some more Walnut to continue with the chairs. I rang Degoose and he invited me to come see him, adding he didnt have any Walnut but we could go see his fellow woodworker Trevor Gaskill afterwards. Lots of exciting things are happening at Lazy larrys Wood Works, so if Larry is a buddy you may want to give him a call to get the good goss. Anyway Larry showed me some New Guinea Rosewood pieces he had which were exactly what I needed. ...
I thought I would tell how I got the middle piece out without a Coring tool. I do have one of those tools but could not safely use it on this occasion because of the way the lump was mounted.My coring tool requires the use of the tail stock, and that was absolutely tied up holding this lump onto the faceplate. So I had to revert to other means.The first photo shows the inner and outer bowls sitting roughly in their original position. I worked my chisels in as far as I could un...
I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser’s Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet. So for all other surfaces on this cabinet I sprayed Deft lacquer. Those surfaces were the panel top, both sides of the cabinet plus the cabin...
I have a 15-20 year old Delta left-tilt Unisaw table saw. The tilt mechanism works well and easily adjusts with the hand wheel. The lock wheel also turns freely, but when it is turned down and tightened, you can still turn the hand wheel. That means that’s wood passes through the saw, any vibration or forces between the fence and blame can affect the degree of tilt. I went to my local Woodcraft store where I purchased the saw and the owner/manager explained that Delta is basically out o...
It has been a wild and incredibly busy week. I have spent most of my days up in my shop, working on cutting my wood orders. It is difficult to call it 'work' because I do enjoy doing what I do so much. With the release of Lynne Andrew's Noah's Ark series last week, there has been a huge rush to purchase the wood pieces from me. Along with this have been our regular orders and all the other business tasks. I never in my wildest dreams could have imagined being in such a wonderf...
I sprayed two coats of Zinsser’s clear shellac today in order to seal the dye I wiped on all surfaces of this cabinet last night. Now I need to make a choice for the top coat finish. I have several cans of lacquer and polyurethane in my shop. Which should I use. This cabinet is a shop tool cabinet so durability is probably my biggest concern. I will study a couple of my finish books tonight. QUESTIONWhat finish coat should I spray tomorrow? Lacquer? Or Polyurethane? I al...
OK first up acknowledgements to Mark Wilson for educating me on removing iron stains from naills in wood using Oxalic Acid. I thought I may be able to use common household products according to information I read on the internet so after visiting under the sink I set to work. I did three tests with the same test sample offcut CLR results no change. Active ingredients not disclosed apart from not containing any phosphates Mould AwayResults no change Active ingredients Sodium hyd...
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