Well I am making some progress abeit that it is slow. I was in limbo wondering what I was going to do for the false drawer front material. I am trying to keep my cost down and really didn’t want to purchase mahogany to make the fronts out of. I was browsing around one of the hardwood stores that I purchaase from over in Memphis and got to talking to one of the sales reps and told him what I was trying to do and he put me on a species of wood that I had never used before and said that...
Damian posted a blog and was asking about dimensioning a board that was bowed. When I read his title I thought he might be asking my question. It wasn’t so I’m going to ask it here. When I buy wood at the sawmill I usually get 5/4 stock so that when it dries it’s still a little over 1” thick and can be planed to a great board. Sometimes the wood is 1 3/8 to 1 1/2” thick. Should all of this wood be planed to 13/16 or so. Or is it desirable to keep them thick...
After last week’s ongoing progress, it felt a bit slow this week (which it is), but I did have some things I wanted to share, and also was able to finish the base with 3 coats of BLO which is what I’m going to keep on it for conditioning the wood, and protecting it from moisture. Mistake #1: Drawboring to the wrong side (cringe) 2 legs on each side of the base are connected together using 2 short rails. The top one is using a sliding dovetail, while the lower one uses M&T. ...
Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...
Not much left to do. I picked up some proper braided 65lb test fishing line. Plenty strong enough for our purposes. As the online documentation mentions, I used 4 loops, and made it snug enough that I could, with effort, still remove the blade when necessary. Now that it actually was tensioned like a working saw, I had no choice but to give it a try! You may notice that offcut from my circle cutting inlay tool test. I decided to follow the circular groove, and even with the low ...
Well Thanks alot for the warm welcome! I’m really looking forward to browsing through all of the amazing stuff on this site. As soon as I find some time. I’ll try to go ahead and post some pics of my latest project so I can join in the fun and I should be able to add some older stuff over the next couple of weeks.
So here is the 2 cut out scarf pieces fitted together.SO the last image of the past post was just one side of the scarf joint. The hole in the middle is for a set of wedges to be put in to keep the joint tight. Any scarf joints created for building today will have plenty of lags in it. Being a table I will use 3/4 or 1 inch pegs to serve as an additional way to keep it tight. Some comments suggested using a sawzall or a chainsaw to hog more material out. I dont’ have a sawzall and my...
Just sold this: And bought this: I’m not even anywhere near retirement either! :) I blame my 3 yr old son and a lack of space in the garage for more tools. ;)
hello fellow woodworkers ! having looked in many nooks and cranys here in LJ’s for my time here ,i have been very impressed with the skills and designs of everyones projects ,from beginers to pros alike .it is a joy for me ( and i’m sure others here too ) to watch as everyone’s talents grow ,and their skill levels increase thru their own work , and the comments and help of others .tots helping dad drive nails , working construction to pay for school , to getting away from...
Check this out from NBC last night. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/3032619/vp/31929478#31929478
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