I’m excited this morning. I am going to spend the day reclaiming a wall in my shop which has been full of drywall and about 3’x10’ was unusable .I sold the remaining drywall and now all I have to do is remove some old wood and I have gained max 30 sq ft. This will give me a spot to install my DC and have it close to the tools that need it most. I have a shroud coming for my miter saw and the TS has it’s own dedicated shop vac. Abrinet abrasives for the ROS also cuts...
Check out the forum at GarageWoodworks!
Want a handle for your turning tools without the big price tag? I’ll show you how and have a bit of fun in the process! I was able to find all of the necessary components at my local Home Depot to make 2 handles. Interested? Here’s what you need to get going! Determination to save some greenbacksA tool for which to make the handle1/2” pipe nipple (I used 18” and 12” long pieces)A 1/2” cap for one end of your pipe… I mean handleTwo 1/4-20 set ...
Here is the process I used to attach the carved turkey foot to a bark-on shaft. I am not sure what type of wood the shaft is, but I selected it for the interesting bark it has. I have used this type before and the bark stays attached and has interesting colors and textures. The trick is to make a nice transition between it and the carving, trying to make it flow, nut just a carving stuck on top of a stick. I used wooden dowels and Titebond glue to join the carving to the stick. After the glue...
This year I am building two workshops, one is total 1500sqft and the other is approx.30,000sqft.the small workshop i decided to establish as for small scale decorating facilities, right now I change all electrical wiring into 3phase, and will install brandnew machines,like 4’x10’ hot press, 7-combine machine, moulder,radial saw, surface and thichness, band saw, lathe, post and milling, veneer stitching and compressor. But biggest mix conventional machines and CNC automated machine...
Well, it has been a few days since I have been in the shop. My school work has bogged me down. I am planning on getting into the shop this weekend. As I need to start building a desk for our new library room in our house. Thanks to Tearan, I have some beautiful veneer to use for the desk top. Hey Tearan, I am going to use Maple for the frame and an MDF substrate. It is still in the planning stages. Not sure how I want to do the legs though. Any thoughts? It is going to be a 2 part desk that w...
One of the future follow on project from the Norms Miter Bench project was to build in a sand paper organizer into one of the drawers of the bench.In early February a fellow LJ KnotWright told me about a liquidation sale from the shutdown of a Dell production line. I bought a bunch of things but one of the jewels was a 2’x2’ bin for PC components on the assembly line. I looked at it, knew that it would fit in one of my drawers and immediately re-purposed it in my head. With all of...
Hello LJ’s. Both chair arms are out of the clamps. I like the white artist pencil I found for marking on darker woods. I started laying out the mortises on the legs and wrapping my brain around the whole project BEFORE I start cutting wood and screwing something up. I like to write in marker on areas that will be hidden by joinery so I’m not searching for a faint pencil mark. Here are the layouts for the mortises. I have been thinking of buying a bench top mortiser but IR...
This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern. Keel Rabbet Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section. To me, it seemed practical to try ...
Just like with the plumb cut it is easier and more accurate to use the bottom rail as a guide to cut the arch rail. Here I use the bottom rail as a support for the swing arm to cut the curve in the arch rail. I start by lining up the two stiles with the rails so they are parallel. I have already marked a centerpoint on the bottom rail and positioned it 30” or so from the top of the top rail. Since I’m using the Milescraft circle guide it is very easy to reposition the swing ar...
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1853 entries
- dbhost - 452 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- mafe - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- Dave Rutan - 275 entries
- robscastle - 263 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 258 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 233 entries
- bandit571 - 229 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- HappyHowie - 200 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 200 entries
- Rustic - 190 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries
- StumpyNubs - 184 entries
- clieb91 - 165 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- littlecope - 154 entries
- andyboy - 151 entries