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|07-26-2011 01:14 AM||
how to prevent tear out - 4 replies
I use 12” Makita planer to smooth the rough surface. When the machine is well tuned including new blades, the output is satisfactory most of time. However, I often have a problem on Bubinga and hard maple. The surface is chipped out badly. I don’t have much problem on other species. Some boards have many different grains, I guess, ch...
|02-15-2011 06:00 AM||
about WoodRat from UK - 11 replies
While searching the web, I found woodrat made from UK.It’s a routing tool making joineries.I watched their demo video and it looks like working great.It’s extremely easy to make all kind of joinery.Is there anyone ever used this Rat?If so, let me know your opinion because some tools looks easy to use in their demos but in reality, m...
|02-04-2011 07:18 PM||
Titebond Food Safety - 2 replies
Hi cutting board club members!!!I have a question for Titebond II and III, which are known for waterproof and food safety.When I read their label on the bottle, it says “Safe on non-direct food contact”.I don’t get concrete idea what is non-direct contact, and are the glues lines on the cuttingboard considered non-direct becaus...
|08-24-2010 02:11 AM||
Lumber Air Dry - 9 replies
Last week, I bought about 200 bf of fresh-cut walnut lumber.When the lumber is air dried, I’ve seen most cases rough sufaceis directly dried.Is there any problem if I air-dry the lumber after planing the surface? I just want to dry the good ones. However, my problem is I can tell which board has good grain only after planing. Thank for...
|07-15-2010 11:12 PM||
glue lines - 2 replies
Dear folksI think some already knows what I’m going to talk about.I often make tables by joing same type of wood like cherry, maple or walnut, most of time use kiln-dried ones. Sometimes the table shows the glue lines 2-3weeks after joining the wood. It doesn’t show up all the time but sometimesit hurts my schedule. The worst timing ...