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Walnut Bent Lamination Floor Lamp #1: the design

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Blog entry by bfd posted 09-20-2008 04:06 AM 6856 reads 6 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Here is the first of two new projects I am currently working on. This is a commision that I received for a floor lamp. After several revisions here is what we finally settled on. FritzM of LJ made the suggestion of eliminating a base detail I had and having the the uprights flare out to form a tripod and the client loved that idea. Thanks FritzM!

I gave my client a short list of woods that I could build this out of and he left it up to me so I selected walnut.
Here is a shot of the piece of 8/4×108” x 10” that I picked out. I ended up cutting it down to 36” and 72” so that I wouldn’t be fighting with it in my small shop. I would have struggled trying to pass 108” stock through my jointer, table saw, planer and band saw.

I start by building the mdf bending forms. This time I spend the extra $2 and get a full sheet of light weight mdf. MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD! I build two forms, one for the main bow and one for the legs. These were much easier then the forms that I did for my tea cart. I use pocket holes to connect the sections of the forms together

This time I just spray mount the paper template directly onto the mdf. I cut these templates out on my band saw and finish them up on my new ridgid oscilating sander.

I then set up to cut my own veneer on my bandsaw. I set up to resaw 1/8” thick veneer.

I mark my stock prior to cutting so I can keep the veneer in order

Now I am ready to start the glue up

Using Better Bond Ultra-CAT veneer glue I go to work

Here is the bow lamination just after I took it out of the form. I used wax paper to create two halves during the glue up. I will router out a channel in the middle to accept 3/8 OD copper pipe which I will run wire through (David Marks did a similar lamp). I take my 1950’s era belt sander to it to clean it up a bit before I proceed. More to come.



16 comments so far

View trifern's profile

trifern

8135 posts in 3230 days


#1 posted 09-20-2008 04:24 AM

Congratulations on your commission. Looks like an interesting lamp. I look forward to watching your progress and seeing the finished piece. Thanks for sharing.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

View ChicoWoodnut's profile

ChicoWoodnut

904 posts in 3278 days


#2 posted 09-20-2008 06:26 AM

Hi Brian,

Do you glue up those 1/8” veneers right off the saw or do you need to smooth them somehow first?

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

View Les Hastings's profile

Les Hastings

1300 posts in 3236 days


#3 posted 09-20-2008 01:56 PM

That’s going to be cool lamp Brian. Great post, thanks for that great set of pictures on the how to. I’ll be looking forward to seeing this finished.

-- Les, Wichita, Ks. (I'd rather be covered in saw dust!)

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 3270 days


#4 posted 09-20-2008 05:43 PM

Thanks Guys for your comments
Scott, not having a thinkness sander yet I glued up the veneer right off the saw.

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 3460 days


#5 posted 09-21-2008 07:32 PM

I have similar Qs to Scott and Jarrod…

In general, you must have the bandsaw set up pretty precise. I can imagine that if you had an out of square condition (or if you sawed some twist into the strips) that could be exaggerated in the glued up piece. You ARE brave!

So, how did you keep things so consistent?

Again, great work and approach in these projects!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 3270 days


#6 posted 09-21-2008 10:02 PM

Hi Jarrod & Dorje,

Very good questions. I might have just gotten lucky but I ran them through rough and didn’t edge join between. My backward logic was that if I could only edge joint on one side without using a thickness sander on the other then I would have a rough to jointed surface up against each other and that difference would be more noticeable vs. rough to rough. The blade I used (which can be seen in the Asian table blog pic) is a $15 Grizzly 3/4” .032 3TPI HOOK blade. To date this is the only blade I have used (I am totally new to the realm of Band Saws) so I have nothing to benchmark it against yet (until I buy a Lenox, Woodslicer or Timber Wolf) but here are some pictures of what I was able to produce. I did have the blade dialed in on the tension and spent some time setting my guides. It would be interesting to see what type of results I would get if I A.) changed out the blade to something higher end B.) edge jointed before re-sawing the next slice C.) and used a thickness sander (when I get one) before glue up. My hope is to sell more of these so I am constantly going to try different approaches to see what yields the best results.



View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 3460 days


#7 posted 09-21-2008 10:12 PM

Looks like great results!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View mdf's profile

mdf

40 posts in 3439 days


#8 posted 09-22-2008 02:57 PM

Looks really great. Did you have any spring back with the lamination? I am looking forward to seeing the next steps.

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 3270 days


#9 posted 09-22-2008 04:59 PM

Jarrod, let me know what you think of the wood slicer when you had a chance to use it.

MDF, there is slight spring back in each lamination.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3442 posts in 3337 days


#10 posted 10-08-2008 06:32 PM

Rad.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View Blake's profile

Blake

3442 posts in 3337 days


#11 posted 10-08-2008 06:35 PM

It is great that you are blogging the whole process. I started that hall table with the bent laminations last night. I am going to be bugging you about some of the details of the process when I get to that point. In the mean time I’m studying this blog… thanks and keep it going!

Could you post a link to the glue that you use?

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3048 days


#12 posted 10-08-2008 07:56 PM

Hi could you tell me how this aluminium piece on the bandsaw works?I have some pieces of alluminium that would do fine just like to know how you use it I take it it is for very small pieces.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 3270 days


#13 posted 10-08-2008 08:04 PM

Hi Blake,

Awesome I was wondering if you started the table yet. I had really good luck with this glue http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=86_40&products_id=187. If you are laminating a dark wood like walnut you can use the glue as is because the glue is the color and consistency of caramel. If you are using a lighter wood you will have to order the lightening agent that they sell. If you use the lightening agent at full strength the same glue lightens in color to be used with Ash or maple. I used it for both this project and the bent laminated tea cart that I did see below (I also blogged that one). Please let me know if you have any questions and good luck. Looking forward to seeing your project.

Click for details

View bfd's profile

bfd

502 posts in 3270 days


#14 posted 10-08-2008 08:17 PM

Hi Scotsman, It is actually the Grizzly resaw fence turned 90 degrees on its face to give me a straight line that is shorter for cutting thin pieces. It allowed me to bring the blade guard to within 1/8- 1/4” of the stock that I was resawing.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3442 posts in 3337 days


#15 posted 10-08-2008 08:57 PM

Thanks. I favorited this page.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

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