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|07-11-2016 12:44 AM||
Building Radius Top Doors - 6 replies
Hey there gang, A customer wants radius top pocket doors, similar to something like this http://www.nicksbuilding.com/Images2/round_top_door_pics/Salzburg%206080%20WM.jpgbut a french door style, with 12-15 divided lights. I’ve built an eyebrow dormer and sash before, so I’m not super afraid of the curves here.But I’m wond...
|07-01-2016 07:48 PM||
Corner kitchen sink, cabinet - 2 replies
Hey all,I’m building a new kitchen for some neighbors. They want a corner sink. I have tried to talk them out of this to no success. I was able to talk them into making the cabinetry meet at a 90 degree inside corner, rather than a 45 degree leg, as the sink is two basins, each side of the corner. So my questions: (how best to con...
|06-29-2016 04:42 PM||
red birch vs. natural birch - 2 replies
Hi Gang, I’ve never worked with Birch before. I’m building a kitchen for someone and they have chosen a “natural Birch” from Walzcraft for doors and drawers/fronts. I am building the carcasses and wanted to also make the face frames, so that I could more accurately order doors/drawers. But I’ll have to matc...
|04-12-2016 01:12 PM||
Garden arbor - material and finish - 2 replies
I’ll be building a small garden arbor for a customer. Given the curved rafter design, it requires a 2X12. So I’d like to use conventional Doug Fir (select). I’ll hand pick every piece. No one stocks Cedar 2X12 and it’s literally 10 times the cost. I could get rough sawn Sapele/Mahog but that would be even more after my la...
|03-12-2016 09:01 PM||
Finishing cafe tables - 11 replies
It’s look like I will be commissioned to build (8) 24X30” wood tables for my local food co-op’s dining area. Exact design not yet determined, but probably Maple or Cherry, glued up, maybe 1 1/2” thick or so. I’m wondering what a good choice of finish might be for these. They will be see constant use and be cle...
|03-12-2016 08:56 PM||
Can wipe-on poly fake Waterlox? - 2 replies
Hey guys, I am working on my kitchen. I have all the base and upper cabinets done. They were finished with three coats of Waterlox (i think gloss). I only have the upper soffit frame and panel detail to finish building. I’m wondering if I could get away with wipe on poly, as it’s so much easier to use – quicker to dry, readi...
|01-10-2016 08:03 PM||
Choosing a shop heater - 20 replies
Hey all, I’ll soon be insulating my 20’x20’ shop with 3” rigid foam panels (about R20) in walls and ceiling. I am thinking of a ceiling hung Modine style propane heater because I don’t want to sacrifice floor space, and because they are readily available used. Only downside I can see is that propane is pricey....
|12-29-2015 09:51 PM||
Bench top - used? - 8 replies
Hi Gang, I’d like to build myself a woodworking bench soon. I plan on building a shaker style (cabinet) with drawers and doors underneath, and a leg vise and tail vise, with sliding dead man.. I think it would be nice to avoid milling lots of large, heavy maple for the top. I see many places online sell the tops at a reasonable cost....
|12-18-2015 12:50 AM||
Handcut dovetails frustration - 16 replies
Hey all, So, I find myself in a strange situation: I’ve cut 19 dovetailed drawers for my kitchen, a tool tote, numerous storage boxes, etc… All by hand, and with fairly nice results. It’s strange though. It seems like the very 1st drawer I ever made is tighter than the most recent, with a few exceptions. I don’t...
|12-14-2015 02:33 PM||
Rotary Phase Converter Tripping Breaker - 11 replies
Not sure if this is the right forum, but I’m hoping some of you are electrically very savvy. I have an Arco Electric phase converter. It’s rated to power a 5hp motor, with a combined 20HP load. I have it installed on a 220, 30amp breaker feeding a sub panel, with another 220 30 amp breaker in it. All wires are 10gauge. I am ...
|12-14-2015 12:44 AM||
Help with Dust Collection - 25 replies
So, currently I have NO dust collection.Jointer and planer spewing everywhere. Sanding dust covering everything.Really not a great situation.I want up wading through shavings, and coughing on fine dust. So, I’m ready to invest in a system, just have no idea what to get. I am willing to build a small shed outside the shop to house a b...
|12-03-2015 10:09 PM||
Porch post to floor connection - 2 replies
I’m redoing a neighbor’s porch. One detail that I’m always thinking about is the best way to connect the wood porch posts to the wood floor. On my porch, I used a piece of 5/4” Azek with some holes drilled through it, then ran a little Azek shoe molding around the post to cover the joint. Seems OK. But what about a situat...
|11-15-2015 02:47 AM||
Shaker Candle Stand Legs - 1 reply
I just started building a Shaker candle. Today I made a template for the legs and cut out three on the band saw.I’m a bit concerned about the orientation of the grain.Should I redo them out of a wider piece of cherry such that the grain runs straight(er) from the “toe” to the “knee” area? Given the radii here ...
|09-19-2015 10:01 PM||
Need help finding a hinge - 3 replies
Hi All, Attached is a crude diagram showing how i want to install a door for a customer. It’s a door under a staircase. I want it hinged off a wall, but customer wants it blind (blends in with the siding). So first question is, is there a hinge that can do this? Sort of like an offset euro cabinet hinge, but much beefier. The door i...
|10-08-2014 09:59 PM||
nice magnet catch? - 2 replies
Searching high and low online for a high quality magnet catch for my custom kitchen cabinet doors. I refuse to throw $0.99 cent plastic junk on them. I had a local specialty store that went out of business and I remember seeing very nice brass magnet catches in different finishes. You guys have any idea where to find something a bit nicer than t...
|05-21-2014 12:01 AM||
Choosing finish for Cherry woodwork? - 8 replies
I’ll soon be completing a custom Cherry staircase with turned newels and balusters, with a custom Cherry hand rail. I’m wondering what some of you would use for a finish on this stuff? Thinking a nice natural oil finish with maybe a poly top-coat? I’m also doing all the door and window trim in Cherry. So ideally somethin...
|02-24-2014 12:37 AM||
Recommend under cabinet lighting? - 5 replies
Looking for line voltage undercabinet lighting. Will be wired to a switch. OK with puck or strips, but needs to be slim profile (1 1/4” valance). Never bought these before and most sites don’t have reviews. Should I be looking for LED? Halogen? Thanks!
|02-23-2014 12:06 AM||
Help with Blum hinges - 8 replies
I’m building a frameless kitchen with overlaid doors on euro hinges.First time doing frameless and first time using euro hinges. I’ve built the cabinets as individual units, meaning where they come together there is a 1 1/2” edge band (in this case I’m using 3/4” thick material). In some spots, adjoining cabinets...
|02-19-2014 03:13 AM||
kitchen cabinet door stuff - 8 replies
Currently building a paint grade kitchen.Upper doors will be about 34” tall. I plan to make them 7/8” thick (ideal for my cope and stick set) with a glued-in 1/4” mdf panel. I know this will be plenty strong, but I’m a bit concerned with the door being “flappy” and easily twisted.Is this of any concern? ...
|01-26-2014 10:09 PM||
Preferred magnet/catch for inset doors? - 2 replies
I have all my kitchen cabinet doors hung on mortised butt hinges and am trying to figure out the best catch.What do you guys prefer? Just the simple magnet catches? The ball/spring catch? I’ve seen a very nice brass magnet catch but I can’t find it online. It was very good looking compared to all the plastic ones. Any ideas? Th...