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|53 days ago||
Recommend under cabinet lighting? - 5 replies
Looking for line voltage undercabinet lighting. Will be wired to a switch. OK with puck or strips, but needs to be slim profile (1 1/4” valance). Never bought these before and most sites don’t have reviews. Should I be looking for LED? Halogen? Thanks!
|54 days ago||
Help with Blum hinges - 8 replies
I’m building a frameless kitchen with overlaid doors on euro hinges.First time doing frameless and first time using euro hinges. I’ve built the cabinets as individual units, meaning where they come together there is a 1 1/2” edge band (in this case I’m using 3/4” thick material). In some spots, adjoining cabinets...
|58 days ago||
kitchen cabinet door stuff - 8 replies
Currently building a paint grade kitchen.Upper doors will be about 34” tall. I plan to make them 7/8” thick (ideal for my cope and stick set) with a glued-in 1/4” mdf panel. I know this will be plenty strong, but I’m a bit concerned with the door being “flappy” and easily twisted.Is this of any concern? ...
|81 days ago||
Preferred magnet/catch for inset doors? - 2 replies
I have all my kitchen cabinet doors hung on mortised butt hinges and am trying to figure out the best catch.What do you guys prefer? Just the simple magnet catches? The ball/spring catch? I’ve seen a very nice brass magnet catch but I can’t find it online. It was very good looking compared to all the plastic ones. Any ideas? Th...
|92 days ago||
Inside kitchen cabinets? - 1 reply
About ready to finish the inside of my upper kitchen cabinets (already hung). They are cherry plywood interiors, solid Cherry face frames. Exterior finish it Waterlox original. I don’t want to use this on the inside as it’s expensive and doesn’t like being applied on a vertical surface. Any recommendations? I’m think...
|118 days ago||
table top help - cup/check - 1 reply
Hi All,So I’m building a farm table for a customer.This customer wants rustic. I was not able to talk him into breadboard ends, which would make me feel good. The lumber used was pre-planed 7/8” kiln dried, three 10” boards for the top. They were slightly funky when I got them but I was able to achieve a fairly flat and very...
|122 days ago||
candle table help/feedback - 1 reply
hey guys,have always wanted to build one of these little tables. spent hours looking at pictures and combined elements from two that i settled on. i decided to try my hand at carving “rat’s paw” feet, as seen on this table: well, having never done this before, it’s certainly not easy to pull off that lifelike ...
|129 days ago||
about to start a tilt top table project - 3 replies
so, i’ve always wanted to build one of these, and now i have a nice excuse – holidays and someone i want to make it for.been looking at pictures for inspiration and this one caught my eye: the antique sales site describes this as a “revolving birdcage.” do you think it’s original or could it have been add...
|151 days ago||
Mortised butt hinges on beaded face frame? - 0 replies
I recently built a small kitchen base cabinet with a beaded face frame.I’m wondering about mortising butt hinges into the bead. Would this look strange?How is this typically handled? Somehow get the hinge barrel to line up with the bead and be the same diameter? Or just mortise it as needed and let it be? But seems you’d be chopping ...
|166 days ago||
divided light door with cope and stick set? - 2 replies
about to do this and looking for some tips.i have an eagle america set. apparently you can remove one of the cutters and stack it on the other to cut the glass rabbet rather than than slot/tenon.but then how do you join the frame together? i’ve also read to mill it as a regular cope and stick door, then cut out the strips with the table...
|173 days ago||
Long grain miter glue-ups - 2 replies
Working on kitchen cabinets for my house.I will be mitering some finished end panels to the face frame, with the miter running vertically through the entire stile. Any tips for gluing these up? I have a jointer and planer, so they’ll be milled dead flat, but I’ve had trouble with this before. I’m thinking: a) pin naile...
|175 days ago||
shelves in upper kitchen cabinets - design - 4 replies
Hi all,I’ll be building my uppers pretty soon. I have a few where the doors will close into each other – no center stile- and thus about a 30” span on the shelves. I don’t think 3/4” ply with an edging is going to span that. So would it be crazy to make my shelves out of solid stock? And how would I best join th...
|184 days ago||
tool chest lid design - 6 replies
I’m working on a small tool chest and am about to begin construction on the lid. I’d like to do something like this: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/ToolChest.jpg Where the top is a solid piece of wood with a dovetailed “apron” around it, so that I can nest my chisels un...
|189 days ago||
Dozuki saw/coping saw questions - 9 replies
Hi Gang. So, I’m not wildly enamored with my Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. It cuts fast but doesn’t leave clean edges. I’m tempted to go to a Japanese Dozuki pull saw. I’ve used Japanese Ryoba before and like them a lot. I find the pull easier to control than the push.But, I am concerned about the coping saw not fitti...
|190 days ago||
any builders/roofers among us? - 2 replies
I’m a carpenter and have run into a roofing situation that I need to fix tomorrow.Basically there was a closed-cut valley with architectural shingles. Granular ice and water in the valley, felt paper elsewhere. There was a vent pipe coming up right alongside the valley. HO wanted it moved. So I started taking it apart and realized that...
|191 days ago||
Dovetail design - horizontal to vertical grain - 0 replies
I was working on a real simple tool tote recently and didn’t think enough about the design. I had my two end pieces flipped vertically which would be taller than the sides and have a handle connecting them. Once I started cutting the pins on the 1st edge of one of these, I realized it would never fly. The pins simply broke right off ...
|195 days ago||
Turning chisel handles - 13 replies
Hi,I’ll be tu rning some replacement handles this weekend for my vintage socket chisels. I use them mostly with a mallet for chopping dovetails and pruning/tuning/notching various stuff on-site in my carpentry. I want to avoid the hassle of leather-tipped ends or brass hoops and this kind of stuff. So I’m wondering if you guys...
|205 days ago||
In the market for chisels - 16 replies
I’m in the market for a real set of chisels. I have some vintage Witherby, etc… that I cleaned up and honed and actually they work great, but only have about 3 of them. I particularly like the socket bevel edged chisels. Wondering if you guys would recommend something like the Stanley Sweetheart chisels – $200 gets you a ...
|219 days ago||
bowl sanding help - 11 replies
awhile ago i turned a live edge cherry bowl. it was turned green and dried in a bag with shavings.no cracks or anything.but, i turned it to final thickness.it’s now slightly warped and i had cut off the spigot so no easy way to remount it on the lathe and it wouldn’t spin true anyway. any tips for sanding the bowl at this point? i...
|275 days ago||
Baluster profile for porch posts? - 2 replies
Hi Gang, So, I own a 1913 Victorian cottage. The railings are original and are some kind of geometric/art deco looking pattern out of 2X2s. The posts, however, are a lovely turned profile. I’ve always wanted to replace the geo pattern with turnings. Now I’ve built my back porch addition and turned a post on my Fay & Scott t...