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08-08-2017 12:06 AM

Bridge City Tools - Brass plated? - 0 replies

I’ve been picking up a few of the discontinued BCTW tools – a mini block plane and a few squares. I saw this AS-3 on ‘the bay’ earlier and was shocked to see what appears to be brass plating over steel! Is this how they’re all made? On the site it sounds like they’re made with solid, machined brass.

07-07-2017 07:33 PM

Seeking Bench Chisel Set Recommendations - 5 replies

I currently have a beautiful 6 pc. Kawasei japanese dovetail chisel set. Also a full set of misc. maker vintage bevel edge chisels that I usually take to site. I am looking for one more nice set to compliment the dovetail chisels, an all around bench chisel set for chopping, maybe slightly more aggressive work – although my dovetail chi...

07-07-2017 02:36 PM

Starrett/Woodpecker square issue - 12 replies

I purchased a used 12” Starrett 4R grad combination square on eBay and just got it today. Seller said he had checked it for square against another square. It appears to be relatively new, not vintage, with a forged steel head. Well, checking it against my brand new Woodpeckers 12” square, the Starrett is off about a 1/32” ov...

07-07-2017 12:54 AM

WTB: Bridge City HP-5 mini block plane - 2 replies

Looking to buy a Bridge City Tool Works HP-5, or maybe an HP-3 mini block plane. Thanks!

06-26-2017 06:34 PM

Passage Door Wood Selection - 14 replies

I’m building a 32”X80” passage door. Finish will be a dark Walnut stain/poly. What do you guys think about using 8/4 Pine or Poplar for the door frame?I will jointing/milling everything straight, but what is least likely to bow and twist on me? I’d rather not have to use quartersawn Oak or something. Thanks!

06-24-2017 03:48 PM

Tool cabinet layout/design - 22 replies

Hey Guys, As usual I wish I had spent more time on designing this thing instead of just diving into. Here’s what I’ve got: Main/central cabinet holds all my planes on shelves. There will be two doors, only about 13 1/2” wide X 34” tall. Main cabinet is 6” deep (5” interior space). I designed the doors to...

06-16-2017 11:03 PM

Tool cabinet door design/opening clearance - 5 replies

Hey there Gang, I’ve built the main tool cabinet and am now setting out to build the doors. The cabinet is 6” deep. I was planning on making the doors the same depth so they’d sit flush to the wall when open. Doors will essentially be a dovetailed box. What I’m wondering is how the two doors will open/close without ...

06-10-2017 12:29 PM

Band Saw Dust Collection - Thinking Ahead - 8 replies

I’m thinking of adding a second band saw to my shop. I have an old Yates Y30 that is amazing for large resawing jobs, but it’s a hassle to change blades and readjust the guides every time I need to make a scroll cut. I have a two car garage shop that is maxed out. I also have a “bench room” in the back of my house, tha...

05-31-2017 12:22 PM

MKII honing guide issues - 19 replies

Haven’t had this long, but am having some issues. Namely, when I go to add the micro-bevel, it is not parallel to the primary bevel and blades are not coming out square. Am using the deluxe jig, and setting the blades with the registration jig. What’s strange is I took a Lie Nielsen plane iron straight from the factory and star...

05-24-2017 12:39 PM

Lie-Nielsen Cabinet Maker's Rabbeting Scraper Plane - to buy or not? - 14 replies

Any of you guys own this plane?I find very little info about it – only one or two youtube videos. I am just “getting into” scraping. Seems like a very useful tool. I purchased the LN #4 bronze smoothing plane because I do a lot of work in curly maple, even got the 50 degree frog. But that tool sits on my bench collecting...

05-07-2017 02:39 AM

Reliable, accurate squares needed - 66 replies

I’m in the market for a very good, precise square. I’d also like a miter square. Vintage or new. I’ve been using a 12” hardware store Stanley combination square for years to set up my cuts and I think it’s responsible for a lot of problems in my work. For example, I went to build a shooting board today, and real...

05-05-2017 09:45 PM

Prepping drawer parts, question - 4 replies

Hey all, I’m curious to ask you: When doing something like a small jewelry box, how and when do you prep the pieces – specifically the interiors?Do you give every piece a swipe or two with the hand plane, or orbital sander? I’ve been playing it safe and doing it with the sander. I’m working with curly Maple and s...

05-05-2017 12:09 AM

Veritas Wheel Marking Gauge - 14 replies

Just received this today and put it to use marking some hard maple drawer sides. Am I missing something? Gives a horrible line, very rough, blunt, and shallow, despite multiple passes. Seems to be crushing the fiber more than anything else. My old antique style wooden gauge with a dull cutter does a much better job. I must be doing somethi...

04-30-2017 10:02 PM

Box lid design - 4 replies

So, making this box for girlfriend. As usual I never bother doing design work, just start making it. These are the kinds of issues that result. I made a lid for the box using a Cherry panel in a curly Maple mitered/splined frame. Once I set it on the box I knew it wasn’t “right.” Both the splines not looking right against...

04-29-2017 06:22 PM

Quadrant hinges for jewelry box? - 3 replies

Making my girlfriend a dovetailed box for her birthday. I’d like the top to open just past 90 and stay propped open. I also want to be able to lift out a removable top tray from the box without the hinges interfering. Will quadrant hinges work for this? My box sides are about 9/16” thick. Top is a frame and panel, using 9/16...

04-27-2017 10:26 PM

Looking to invest in a set of Japanese Chisels - 15 replies

So far I have a mixed bag of vintage American socket chisels (roughly full set) and several vintage Japanese chisels bought on the big auction site. I’ve restored one of them, the 6mm, and man, that thing puts a smile on my face – nicer to work with and easier to sharpen/longer edge retention than anything else I have. So I’...

04-12-2017 11:16 PM

Laminated Curved Stool Seat - 6 replies

I recently picked up some vintage Hallowell stools with ratty plywood seats/backs. I’d like to try my hand at replacing them with solid wood. Thinking resaw wood of choice into maybe 3/16” thick pieces (have 16” resaw capacity) and use existing seat as a form to laminate/clamp onto? Any tips? Thanks!

04-07-2017 10:35 PM

Stripping machine legs - 11 replies

I have a pair of Walker-Turner drill press table legs. Pretty thick lead paint. Have tried two different spooge tank setups over the last two days and it didn’t do a damn thing. I’ve had great success before with this method on a patternmaker’s vise, but I think it’s too big with too many surfaces and I can’t...

01-16-2017 06:29 PM

Clamp rack design - 4 replies

Hi all, For about 10 years now I’ve only had a handful of pipe clamps strewn about, leaning up in corners, etc…I’ve been investing in bar clamps and have a decent collection and it’s time to build a rack. I have a two car garage shop with all my machines, and also a back room of my house, an 11X17’ bench room ...

01-15-2017 01:06 AM

Electrolysis on clamps with wood handscrews - 2 replies

Hi All, I scored a nice batch of 8 Jorgensen HD bar clamps today. Aside from the garish orange color, there is paint on some of the bars, and the previous owner’s last name Sharpie’d onto the head clamps. I’d like to “spooge tank” them, but am not sure about the wood handle. Are these easily removed and rein...

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