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|11-15-2015 02:47 AM||
Shaker Candle Stand Legs - 1 reply
I just started building a Shaker candle. Today I made a template for the legs and cut out three on the band saw.I’m a bit concerned about the orientation of the grain.Should I redo them out of a wider piece of cherry such that the grain runs straight(er) from the “toe” to the “knee” area? Given the radii here ...
|09-19-2015 10:01 PM||
Need help finding a hinge - 3 replies
Hi All, Attached is a crude diagram showing how i want to install a door for a customer. It’s a door under a staircase. I want it hinged off a wall, but customer wants it blind (blends in with the siding). So first question is, is there a hinge that can do this? Sort of like an offset euro cabinet hinge, but much beefier. The door i...
|10-08-2014 09:59 PM||
nice magnet catch? - 2 replies
Searching high and low online for a high quality magnet catch for my custom kitchen cabinet doors. I refuse to throw $0.99 cent plastic junk on them. I had a local specialty store that went out of business and I remember seeing very nice brass magnet catches in different finishes. You guys have any idea where to find something a bit nicer than t...
|05-21-2014 12:01 AM||
Choosing finish for Cherry woodwork? - 8 replies
I’ll soon be completing a custom Cherry staircase with turned newels and balusters, with a custom Cherry hand rail. I’m wondering what some of you would use for a finish on this stuff? Thinking a nice natural oil finish with maybe a poly top-coat? I’m also doing all the door and window trim in Cherry. So ideally somethin...
|02-24-2014 12:37 AM||
Recommend under cabinet lighting? - 5 replies
Looking for line voltage undercabinet lighting. Will be wired to a switch. OK with puck or strips, but needs to be slim profile (1 1/4” valance). Never bought these before and most sites don’t have reviews. Should I be looking for LED? Halogen? Thanks!
|02-23-2014 12:06 AM||
Help with Blum hinges - 8 replies
I’m building a frameless kitchen with overlaid doors on euro hinges.First time doing frameless and first time using euro hinges. I’ve built the cabinets as individual units, meaning where they come together there is a 1 1/2” edge band (in this case I’m using 3/4” thick material). In some spots, adjoining cabinets...
|02-19-2014 03:13 AM||
kitchen cabinet door stuff - 8 replies
Currently building a paint grade kitchen.Upper doors will be about 34” tall. I plan to make them 7/8” thick (ideal for my cope and stick set) with a glued-in 1/4” mdf panel. I know this will be plenty strong, but I’m a bit concerned with the door being “flappy” and easily twisted.Is this of any concern? ...
|01-26-2014 10:09 PM||
Preferred magnet/catch for inset doors? - 2 replies
I have all my kitchen cabinet doors hung on mortised butt hinges and am trying to figure out the best catch.What do you guys prefer? Just the simple magnet catches? The ball/spring catch? I’ve seen a very nice brass magnet catch but I can’t find it online. It was very good looking compared to all the plastic ones. Any ideas? Th...
|01-15-2014 10:54 PM||
Inside kitchen cabinets? - 1 reply
About ready to finish the inside of my upper kitchen cabinets (already hung). They are cherry plywood interiors, solid Cherry face frames. Exterior finish it Waterlox original. I don’t want to use this on the inside as it’s expensive and doesn’t like being applied on a vertical surface. Any recommendations? I’m think...
|12-21-2013 01:21 AM||
table top help - cup/check - 1 reply
Hi All,So I’m building a farm table for a customer.This customer wants rustic. I was not able to talk him into breadboard ends, which would make me feel good. The lumber used was pre-planed 7/8” kiln dried, three 10” boards for the top. They were slightly funky when I got them but I was able to achieve a fairly flat and very...
|12-17-2013 04:09 AM||
candle table help/feedback - 1 reply
hey guys,have always wanted to build one of these little tables. spent hours looking at pictures and combined elements from two that i settled on. i decided to try my hand at carving “rat’s paw” feet, as seen on this table: well, having never done this before, it’s certainly not easy to pull off that lifelike ...
|12-10-2013 04:14 AM||
about to start a tilt top table project - 3 replies
so, i’ve always wanted to build one of these, and now i have a nice excuse – holidays and someone i want to make it for.been looking at pictures for inspiration and this one caught my eye: the antique sales site describes this as a “revolving birdcage.” do you think it’s original or could it have been add...
|11-18-2013 02:18 AM||
Mortised butt hinges on beaded face frame? - 0 replies
I recently built a small kitchen base cabinet with a beaded face frame.I’m wondering about mortising butt hinges into the bead. Would this look strange?How is this typically handled? Somehow get the hinge barrel to line up with the bead and be the same diameter? Or just mortise it as needed and let it be? But seems you’d be chopping ...
|11-02-2013 07:47 PM||
divided light door with cope and stick set? - 2 replies
about to do this and looking for some tips.i have an eagle america set. apparently you can remove one of the cutters and stack it on the other to cut the glass rabbet rather than than slot/tenon.but then how do you join the frame together? i’ve also read to mill it as a regular cope and stick door, then cut out the strips with the table...
|10-27-2013 04:00 AM||
Long grain miter glue-ups - 2 replies
Working on kitchen cabinets for my house.I will be mitering some finished end panels to the face frame, with the miter running vertically through the entire stile. Any tips for gluing these up? I have a jointer and planer, so they’ll be milled dead flat, but I’ve had trouble with this before. I’m thinking: a) pin naile...
|10-25-2013 12:17 PM||
shelves in upper kitchen cabinets - design - 4 replies
Hi all,I’ll be building my uppers pretty soon. I have a few where the doors will close into each other – no center stile- and thus about a 30” span on the shelves. I don’t think 3/4” ply with an edging is going to span that. So would it be crazy to make my shelves out of solid stock? And how would I best join th...
|10-15-2013 10:32 PM||
tool chest lid design - 6 replies
I’m working on a small tool chest and am about to begin construction on the lid. I’d like to do something like this: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/ToolChest.jpg Where the top is a solid piece of wood with a dovetailed “apron” around it, so that I can nest my chisels un...
|10-11-2013 02:00 AM||
Dozuki saw/coping saw questions - 9 replies
Hi Gang. So, I’m not wildly enamored with my Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. It cuts fast but doesn’t leave clean edges. I’m tempted to go to a Japanese Dozuki pull saw. I’ve used Japanese Ryoba before and like them a lot. I find the pull easier to control than the push.But, I am concerned about the coping saw not fitti...
|10-10-2013 01:46 AM||
any builders/roofers among us? - 2 replies
I’m a carpenter and have run into a roofing situation that I need to fix tomorrow.Basically there was a closed-cut valley with architectural shingles. Granular ice and water in the valley, felt paper elsewhere. There was a vent pipe coming up right alongside the valley. HO wanted it moved. So I started taking it apart and realized that...
|10-08-2013 10:45 PM||
Dovetail design - horizontal to vertical grain - 0 replies
I was working on a real simple tool tote recently and didn’t think enough about the design. I had my two end pieces flipped vertically which would be taller than the sides and have a handle connecting them. Once I started cutting the pins on the 1st edge of one of these, I realized it would never fly. The pins simply broke right off ...