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To dream a dream

Blog entry by bayspt posted 603 days ago 302 reads 0 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Brand new to the wonderful world of wood working (well almost), and thirsting for knowledge, I turned to my old, not so faithful friend, the World Wide Web. I went looking for how to videos (for free of course) and stumbled upon The Wood Whisperer. After watching every episode (most of which where way beyond my level but still easy to understand) I heard mention many times of LumberJocks.com, so I decided to check it out. After spending a down day in Sao Paulo, Brazil (on business mind you not pleasure) reading the forums, watching the videos, etc I decided to no longer be a shadow like I had done with previous forums but instead become a member. Then I noticed that I could write a blog as a member (very well put together site I might add) so I decided I would spend this time that I should be using to catch up on paper work to instead write about my current dreams as a wood worker. So without further delay here we go.
(I know I said without further delay but) Just one side point- I like to use these ( ) allot in typing as an aside in the middle of sentences, hope it doesn’t bother anyone (or my perfect spelling and superb use of the English language) Feel free to comment about anything I say and remember I have no stinking clue what I am talking about and please tell me so (if you have a viable solution instead of just “your wrong”)

My first real project-
I convinced my loving wife to let me have the router (PC 694vk) and router table (woodpecker 24”x 36”) (because what good is one without the other (or so I told her)) with the promise that I would build my almost 5-year-old son a bookcase for his room. (She really wants a set of 2 matching book cases for our living room but I think she is trying my skill (I have none per say) in a little less visible part of the house)) He is rapidly outgrowing his old storage system for books as he is learning to read and needs a “big boy book shelf” (and my wife wants his current one to put in the babies room before the baby to be is put in there in June) So a couple of months ago I made a basic design in Sketchup (and had it approved by the boss). I did the research on sag using a neat online calculator I found in a magazine that I can’t seem to remember where I found it now (in the mag or on the web). I am planning to do it in 3/4 clear pine (from the big box store (yea I know)) with an amber lacquer finish, so it will match the other furniture in his room. It seems a bit hefty of a project for me but like TWW and numerous others have said you really learn when you challenge yourself. I plan to make all the joints hidden for a nice clean look and if I can figure out how I will add Sketchup pics. My plan was to joint two 1×8s for the carcass (using my homemade router table jointer fence which works surprisingly well) with a spline of 1/4” ply as a glue joint. Then rip these to 12”. I would use stopped lap joints for the carcass. Then using dadoes for two of the shelves and sliding dovetails for the top middle and bottom I would use 1×12s for the shelves stopping the dadoes and dovetails 3/8 from the front edge. I would then use a sheet of 1/8 paneling (with rabbits in the carcass) for the back. My reasoning for the dovetails is glue up. Since my biggest clamp is 24” (I have one) and the rest are 18” (I have 4) I thought I might have a little trouble with clamping at glue up. The idea was that three nice tight sliding dove tail shelves should hold the project together nicely for final assembly. Now my concern is fitting six 11.5-inch long sliding dovetails (read as “it’s a good thing I am using pine and pine is fairly cheap”). I hope to add pics from Sketchup of the design so you can have at it. Any input would be appreciated (but before we get to that, yes I know it’s pine, and yes I know I need more clamps and “the proper tools for the job” but the wife wants pine and the budget (dictated by the wife) doesn’t want more clamps). I was thinking of doing tapered dovetails but have no idea how to accomplish them. I guess more research is in order. Thanks for reading, and maybe I will do a series on the wayward ways of the beginning wood worker trying to make a simple bookshelf. Sorry for the long post and hopefully I can add pics since the really do say a thousand words.
Jimmy (the wayward wood worker)

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"


18 comments so far

View Toolz's profile

Toolz

307 posts in 641 days


posted 603 days ago

Sounds like a nice project. Looking forward to seeing your results.

-- Growing older but not up!

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 603 days ago

here are the pics I promissed
angle view
shelf joints
dovetail
carcass joints
view with shelves
view without
As you can see the top and bottom shelves are removeable (I plan to use shelf pins). This is a feature my wife wanted since he is young now and has taller board books and such but when he is 15 he may just want extra shelf space for regular paper backs. And before it is asked yes I plan to secure it to the wall.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View teenagewoodworker's profile

teenagewoodworker

2482 posts in 667 days


posted 603 days ago

wow that does look like a great project. keep up posted on how it goes!

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

20771 posts in 720 days


posted 602 days ago

This looks good to me. I like the sliding dovetails.

It also looks like a bookcase entry as well. Were you planning on submitting it?

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

14932 posts in 749 days


posted 602 days ago

Great drawings Jimmy. Now comes the fun part.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 602 days ago

Scott, I don’t speak the Queen’s English but I think the espletive you are looking for in you signature is “bloody”. It just seems to fit. As far as entry, forgive me for being new but what are you talking about?

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

607 posts in 1023 days


posted 602 days ago

Looks like a cool plan! The only thing I’d do is put that bottom horizontal piece (I initially typed “shelf”, which it is, kinda) up about 4” and put a strip across the front, that way if the floor and the bottom don’t have the same notion of “flat” you can adjust easier.

I also find that a little kick room to bang the broom around on the bottom of things helps.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 602 days ago

Dan, Thanks for the idea, I guess it would be a toe kick. I will have to check vertical clearance in the room and see how much I can come up. That would give a much nicer look.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 602 days ago

Just as a side note the online sag calculator was here

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

6226 posts in 672 days


posted 602 days ago

Hi Jimmy

Plan looks good to me. “GET ER DONE” No dought in my mind it will turn out great. Keep us posted.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View SteveKorz's profile

SteveKorz

2030 posts in 612 days


posted 602 days ago

Your project looks nice, You’ll enjoy working through it. Doing it is sometimes the only way to learn.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4013 posts in 861 days


posted 602 days ago

Jimmy,
I would change the back panel to at least 1/4 inch. 1/8 seems much too light to me. I use 1/2 inch back panels on my cabinets because I consider them an integral part of the construction. I then get cussed because the cabinets won’t “rack”. You should make your dove tails with one pass with a straight bit and then one or two passes with a dovetail bit. n
There is a very good adjustable jig for cutting dados with a hand held router. I use one and they really work. Be sure to set up test pieces to check your set ups. I hope this will ease things a bit. I agree with Dan about adding the kick board. You can do it, we will watch. LOL

-- Thos. Angle

View Ad Marketing Guy - Bill's profile

Ad Marketing Guy - Bill

314 posts in 697 days


posted 602 days ago

BEST of Luck – well thought out project, most important thing! Keep your wife happy and impressed this way she is willing to ok the purchase of your next tool !

-- Bill - - Ad-Marketing Guy, Ramsey NJ

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

14174 posts in 1059 days


posted 602 days ago

1. Welcome to LJ. Glad to see that you decided to join
2. an excellent blog. I enjoyed every entertaining and informative word
3. wow.. quite the project. Sure doesn’t sound like a “beginner” project.
4. You already have a Challenge Entry! Cool.

I’m looking forward to watching the progress of this project coming to life – and to more blogs.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

View motthunter's profile

motthunter

2079 posts in 697 days


posted 602 days ago

looks like a good one. Cant wait to see the real one.

-- making sawdust....

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 602 days ago

Thanks all for the support. Thos, I planed to use a piece of hard board or ply to setup the dados and dovetails so the position wil match on both sides, starting at the top and cutting down to fit each level. I guess for the tapered dovetails I can just shim this “jig”. I had also planned to use a straight bit for the “hogging” of the waste on the dovetails. If I plan on a 14 degree 1/2” dovetaile big set to 3/8 inch height, what size straight should I use? I am sure I could figure it out but I am also sure you already know. I am working on the Kick board now in Sketchup. As far as MsDebbieP’s comment about it being a beginner project, I know it is not. My only two saving graces are the fact that it is pine so I can afford a few mistakes and allot of scrap to set things up, and the wonderful help and ideas I am sure I will get from my father and the great people here at LJ. Glad y’alll enjoyed the blog, I will try my best to ballance work and passion (as I am sure most have to do) and keep it up. One question, is the average toe kick 3 or 4 inches? I was thinking more like 3.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View bayspt's profile

bayspt

184 posts in 603 days


posted 600 days ago

Well here is the added toe kick. Real basic but I like it. with toe kick

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

607 posts in 1023 days


posted 600 days ago

I think 3 would work fine if it’s flush with the front face.

And, yeah, pine lets you get away with a lot. A good portion of my learning recently has been about how taking a mallet to it just doesn’t work with a harder wood. Where pine compresses and makes a night tight joint, lyptus shatters and splinters.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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