LumberJocks

Standing Desk of Cherry #8: glue ups, and some lid work

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Blog entry by bandit571 posted 07-10-2017 09:34 PM 427 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 7: Dovetails, just dovetails Part 8 of Standing Desk of Cherry series Part 9: Lid work, hinges, PIP »

Took a while, was fighting things like it was a Monday….Grooves were made…..but needed adjusted..

Tried the 1/4” cutter….skates on the plane wouldn’t close up enough…..will fix at a later date. I put a slightly wider cutter in. Was a bit rough to recut some of the grooves. Got all four done. Needed to plane the poplar panels down a bit….they were sawn Riff….meaning one edge was thicker than the other…

At least Poplar is easy to plane. Had the fan going in the shop….legs stayed cool….shavings blew everywhere..

May have been too thin of a shaving? Got the panels dry fitted..

Took a few tries. Turned out the two panels were not quite wide enough…will need a filler between them, later.

Had 5 pipe clamps at the ready….two needed visegrip keepers so they’d stay clamped..new bottle of glue, was able to get most of my fingers…

There goes the neighborhood. Had to add the fifth pipe clamp along the back edge, and two “F” style ones front to back….let this mess sit awhile ( while I peel dried glue off my fingers)

Got to thinking ( Dangerous?) about how the lid will meet the top shelf…..went to Roy Underhill’s site to find out how to find the meeting angle. Meanwhile, clamps are coming off….didn’t like how the top shelf match the lid…

Dug through the stash, and found a better match. Needed trimmed down a bit. The way the two pieces were meeting at the angle..

Just wasn’t getting it….I used Underhill’s ideas. A scrap of plywood was held on the inside of the case, and the edge was traced. I got out some scrap the same thickness as the lid, drew two more lines showing where the two pieces crossed at. Bevel gauge to mark the angle. I found a stick of pine scrap, and made a guide block for the angles..

Laid these on the edge of the side, to make sure they would work. First off, I needed to trim things square on the ends, and to length. No tablesaw? I do have a vintage saw..

Might even be as old as I am? I dug out a scrap of pine that had a good straight, smooth edge. I marked a cut line, and then where the edge of the saw’s shoe would be…

As long as I keep the shoe tight to the “fence”....perfect cut. Once that was done, on to the beveled rip cuts..

Remember those guide blocks? I use one of them to set the bevel cut on the saw. I set the fence for the cut, about like the crosscut ones..

Same as before, keep the shoe tight to the fence. After both edges were ripped, a dry fit to see how they will meet up..

Looks better…Will need to plane the edges a bit, to remove a few saw marks. As for the bottom panels?

About a 2” gap. I can make a filler, and have it also support the middle area. As for plane work..

I have these to clean up, glue lines, saw marks. I also have dovetails to plane smooth. Mondays, the shop is usually closed….maybe Tuesday, I can get back to work?

Stay tuned….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use



2 comments so far

View JCamp's profile

JCamp

398 posts in 305 days


#1 posted 07-11-2017 12:56 AM

Bandit you do a good job on all ur projects. Especially considering how many hand tools u use
Another good job

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

7221 posts in 2083 days


#2 posted 07-11-2017 03:16 PM

looks like it’s coming along nicely

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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