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    <title>b2rtch's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2012 18:16:24 GMT</pubDate>
    <description></description>
    <item>
      <title>Powermatic 60 jointer, end of the story</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/31439</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>This the continuation of :  <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40359#reply-477310">http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40359#reply-477310</a></p>


	<p>I already have long post about my adventures with this Powermatic 60 jointer.<br />I have quite a bit more work to do on it in addition of repairing and re-installing the out feed table and all the following adjustments, this is why I create the blog.</p>


	<p>There is number of things I noticed on this jointer that ti want to modify/change improve on.</p>


	<p>#1 the easiest one; replace the defective and unsafe switch with a paddle type safety switch. I also could relocate it but I do not think that with a paddle this is necessary.I should receive the switch today.</p>


	<p>#2 Remount and possibly relocate the motor. The motor mount plate is a disaster: to adjust the V-belts tension ,you need to get under the machine where the cap-screws are. Without tipping the machine over or turning it up-side down I do not know how to do it. I am sure tha there is a better way but for now I did not spend the time to find it. In addition when I opened the cover , the motor compartment was full of wood chips, which is not good and not safe. There is really nothing to prevent the wood chips from falling from the cutter head thought the wide opening for the V-Belts. Someone replaced the motor and to do that cut, with a cutting torch,  huge hole in the plate. The mounting plate is practically junk.<br />On the newer model the motor is mounted upside down under the chip chute. I am might try to do the same thing on an articulated plate which at the same time will help to tension the belts.</p>


	<p>#3 replace the cutting heat with an spiral one, probably Shelix. The main reason for that is the ease to &#8220;replace&#8221; cutters if damaged. <br />To replace and adjust knives if just too much of pain in my rear end. In addition if one knife is damaged, all three are damages , with the cutter this is no longer necessarily true.</p>


	<p>#4 I have to do some cosmetic work on the machine, someone splashed cement all over one side of it.</p>]]>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2012 18:16:24 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/31439</guid>
      <author>b2rtch</author>
      <dc:creator>b2rtch</dc:creator>
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      <title>1987 Delta Unisaw renovation/adaptation/modernization</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/29941</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Many of you know about the 1987 Delta Unisaw that I bought earlier this week and many also know about what I wish to do with it.<br />The machine is in excellent condition, the paint is immaculate and and there is only a little surface rust on the table but it is 25 years old and it does not do everything I want to do in the present condition.<br />For you who are not aware of my plan, here is what I desire to accomplish with this saw:</p>


	<ol>
	<li>: General detail inspection and cleaning.</li>
		<li>: Some dis-assembly</li>
		<li>: Replace the belts.</li>
		<li>:  Clean the rust from the table</li>
		<li>: Install a Bork riving knife and blade protector with dust collection</li>
		<li>: Remove it from the mobile base and build a base so that finished the saw will be co-planar with my existing out-feed table/cabinet.</li>
		<li>: Install a router table extension, already ordered but back-ordered 2 weeks.
#:  Install paddle switch for safety</li>
		<li>: Install the Bosch 1611 plunge router in the router extension table which in addition involve the construction of a router lift, none being available for this router (ready my post about this issue)</li>
		<li>: Build a cabinet with dust extraction for the router.</li>
		<li>: Install the new fence.</li>
		<li>: Build from scratch an effective dust collection system involving the construction of baffles inside the cabinet.  </li>
		<li>: Install the motor cover that I just bought.( I realized last nigh in my bed that just like on my existing R4511, the motor cover is on the &#8220;wrong&#8221; side of the cabinet  as my router extension and cabinet will be on the same side of the saw and that I cannot open it as a door)</li>
		<li>: Final adjustments</li>
	</ol>


	<p>As I go,  I shall document my progress with pictures.<br />Any comment is welcome.<br />( I received the new fence yesterday and already I have some issue with it. I shall write about it later)<br />Time permitting I shall start the work  later today or may be tomorrow.<br />Thank you for reading.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 12 May 2012 12:44:31 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/29941</guid>
      <author>b2rtch</author>
      <dc:creator>b2rtch</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>I am building a wood working bench</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/15879</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Hopefully, Soon my shop will be built, in the meantime I built my self a bench.</p>


	<p>Even after trying and reading the instruction I still do not know how to upload pictures in the this post.<br />In the Ridgid forum, I have no problem loading pictures right from my computer, I lke this system better.<br />Hopefull you can see the pictures.<br />Bert</p>


	<p>!<a href="http://s765.photobucket.com/albums/xx291/b2rtch/New%20bench/"><img src="http://s765.photobucket.com/albums/xx291/b2rtch/New%20bench/" title="New bench" alt="New bench" /></a>!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 23 May 2010 16:33:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/15879</guid>
      <author>b2rtch</author>
      <dc:creator>b2rtch</dc:creator>
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