This the continuation of : http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40359#reply-477310
I already have long post about my adventures with this Powermatic 60 jointer.
I have quite a bit more work to do on it in addition of repairing and re-installing the out feed table and all the following adjustments, this is why I create the blog.
There is number of things I noticed on this jointer that ti want to modify/change improve on.
#1 the easiest one; replace the defective and unsafe switch with a paddle type safety switch. I also could relocate it but I do not think that with a paddle this is necessary.I should receive the switch today.
#2 Remount and possibly relocate the motor. The motor mount plate is a disaster: to adjust the V-belts tension ,you need to get under the machine where the cap-screws are. Without tipping the machine over or turning it up-side down I do not know how to do it. I am sure tha there is a better way but for now I did not spend the time to find it. In addition when I opened the cover , the motor compartment was full of wood chips, which is not good and not safe. There is really nothing to prevent the wood chips from falling from the cutter head thought the wide opening for the V-Belts. Someone replaced the motor and to do that cut, with a cutting torch, huge hole in the plate. The mounting plate is practically junk.
On the newer model the motor is mounted upside down under the chip chute. I am might try to do the same thing on an articulated plate which at the same time will help to tension the belts.
#3 replace the cutting heat with an spiral one, probably Shelix. The main reason for that is the ease to “replace” cutters if damaged.
To replace and adjust knives if just too much of pain in my rear end. In addition if one knife is damaged, all three are damages , with the cutter this is no longer necessarily true.
#4 I have to do some cosmetic work on the machine, someone splashed cement all over one side of it.
-- Bert

















39 comments so far
lumberjoe
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2398 posts in 417 days
#1 posted 287 days ago
Bert, where you do you get your paddle switches? I want one for my drill press and router table
-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#2 posted 287 days ago
Joe,
For router tables and drill presses I recommend to use a foot switch instead of paddle switch. With a foot switch you have both hands free to hold the parts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=switch
I get the paddle switches from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HSA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
-- Bert
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#3 posted 287 days ago
I forgot one item in my “to-do” list: replace the blade protector wit a new style one.
Joe, for the drill press I use this one:
Momentary Power Foot Switch
(if something goes wrong release the switch and everything stops)
For the router I use this one:
Power Maintained Foot Switch
-- Bert
lumberjoe
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2398 posts in 417 days
#4 posted 287 days ago
Thanks Bert. I’ve only seen the momentary switch, which I agree is good for a drill press, but of no value for a router table. I’ll pick that one up today when I go to HF for a drill press vice.
For the router table, I think I am more comfortable with a paddle switch. I am used to how it operates with a table saw and like that I wouldn’t have to worry about kicking it or fumble around looking for it. Not to mention I stull don’t have full dust collection so it would get lost in the shavings :)
-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#5 posted 287 days ago
Joe, dust collection should be a priority, for your health and your better half’s health
-- Bert
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#6 posted 287 days ago
More bad news,more questions and certainly more money.
This is how my jointer looks like tonight:
I never before saw a switch like this one, It open/close not only the hot and the neutral but also the ground!
Second major bummer, the motor is only 1 1/2HP
Now what do I do, buy a 3HP motor or live with this one?
My #1 concern is that this fantasy is getting very expensive, more that I want to spend on it.
-- Bert
crashn
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507 posts in 634 days
#7 posted 286 days ago
give it a shot with the 1.5. If it does not live up to your expectation, a) sell the thing and get the grizzly or b) get a bigger motor. No sense worrying out it yet, you have not run the jointer yet with all the other mishaps. Slow down and wait for the repair, then assemble and give it a try.
-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#8 posted 286 days ago
I can get a 3HP motor at Harbor Freight for $120.00 ( after 20% discount) and sale the one I have for $100.00 (new it is over $300.00 at Grainger)
-- Bert
a1Jim
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87124 posts in 1745 days
#9 posted 286 days ago
It won’t hurt to try the 1 1/2 hp ,it may not need more since you typically take a 1/16th of an inch off at a time.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
oldnovice
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1753 posts in 1536 days
#10 posted 286 days ago
lumberjoe,
I used to use a foot switch for my router table but I found that when I am did longer cuts that I tended to “walked off” of the foot switch.
Right now I am just using a power strip because I haven’t found a paddle switch that can handle both my router and shop vac. I want the paddle switch to turn on both! I don’t want to hard wire this, I would prefer a switch with two controlled outlets. Haven’t seen one … may need to make my own!
-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#11 posted 286 days ago
oldnovice, I have this kind of switch on my router table.
You probably can get it as a replacement part on Bosch and Skill router tables.
Call skill parts department.
https://www.skiltools.com/Accessories/Pages/Accessories.aspx?cid=3053
-- Bert
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#12 posted 286 days ago
This morning I shall order the Shelix cutting head and the new blade protector. (total around $550.00. ouch!!)
Tonight after work I shall buy a 3HP motor at HF and hopefully go pick up the repaired out-feed table.
I am taking Friday off from work to work on this project.
So far my cost is:
jointer = $400.00
Shelix head= $520
Table repair= (estimated) $150.00
Motor=$130.00
Blade guard= $50.00
Total= $1250
I can get a G0656PX 8” x 72” Jointer with Spiral Cutterhead and Mobile Base for $1225.00 with shipping.
Is this really worth it?
I can get some money back by selling my existing Delta jointer for around $300.00 and the 1 1/2 motor for around $100.00 ( $350.00 new).
This is $400.00 back, so now my cost would be around $850.00 or I just could bolt this thing back together and sale it for $300.00 and forget about it.
I need to wait and to think about that.
-- Bert
Alexandre
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1417 posts in 359 days
#13 posted 286 days ago
Bert, send me the powermatic to Canada to me,.... I need a jointer, plus it’s for a good cause, then buy yourself the grizzly ;-). Shipping that powermatic would probably cost more than the jointers worth . :P
-- My terrible signature...
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#14 posted 286 days ago
Hey Jim,
Hi! This is a long time I did not talk to you my friend.
You are right I could try the 1 1/2 HP motor to see what would happen with it.
But as I just wrote I can get a 3HP at HF for $130.00 after 20% off and I think that I could get just about the same money back selling this one (this is Dayton , cost around $400.00 new from Grainger)
DAYTON Motor, 1-1/2 HP, General $398.25
Is $850.00 worth it for a 38 years old jointer?
-- Bert
b2rtch
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2954 posts in 1217 days
#15 posted 286 days ago
Alexandre, what is the good cause?
-- Bert
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