LumberJocks

1987 Delta Unisaw renovation/adaptation/modernization

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by b2rtch posted 05-12-2012 12:44 PM 7123 reads 2 times favorited 63 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Many of you know about the 1987 Delta Unisaw that I bought earlier this week and many also know about what I wish to do with it.
The machine is in excellent condition, the paint is immaculate and and there is only a little surface rust on the table but it is 25 years old and it does not do everything I want to do in the present condition.
For you who are not aware of my plan, here is what I desire to accomplish with this saw:

  1. : General detail inspection and cleaning.
  2. : Some dis-assembly
  3. : Replace the belts.
  4. : Clean the rust from the table
  5. : Install a Bork riving knife and blade protector with dust collection
  6. : Remove it from the mobile base and build a base so that finished the saw will be co-planar with my existing out-feed table/cabinet.
  7. : Install a router table extension, already ordered but back-ordered 2 weeks. #: Install paddle switch for safety
  8. : Install the Bosch 1611 plunge router in the router extension table which in addition involve the construction of a router lift, none being available for this router (ready my post about this issue)
  9. : Build a cabinet with dust extraction for the router.
  10. : Install the new fence.
  11. : Build from scratch an effective dust collection system involving the construction of baffles inside the cabinet.
  12. : Install the motor cover that I just bought.( I realized last nigh in my bed that just like on my existing R4511, the motor cover is on the “wrong” side of the cabinet as my router extension and cabinet will be on the same side of the saw and that I cannot open it as a door)
  13. : Final adjustments

As I go, I shall document my progress with pictures.
Any comment is welcome.
( I received the new fence yesterday and already I have some issue with it. I shall write about it later)
Time permitting I shall start the work later today or may be tomorrow.
Thank you for reading.

-- Bert



63 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2303 days


#1 posted 05-12-2012 03:20 PM

Sounds like a solid plan. Good luck!

Looking forward to seeing some progress

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112089 posts in 2231 days


#2 posted 05-12-2012 03:56 PM

Sounds like a full blown make over .Have fun up grading.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#3 posted 05-12-2012 05:17 PM

Here are the fist pictures; what I am starting with:
( remember that this Unisaw will be 25 years old next November)

very little and very superficial rust on the table

I shall start to work on the Unisaw later today

-- Bert

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6648 posts in 2634 days


#4 posted 05-12-2012 07:42 PM

Pretty clean for 25 years old.

Sounds like you are commited to a professional setup.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#5 posted 05-12-2012 11:01 PM

After one afternoon of work here are the results:


Certainly the table cleaned out very nicely


At one corner a piece of the table is broken


I have issues wiring the new paddle switch;when pressing the start button the motor starts but when I release the button then the motor stop. I shall have to ask some help at work.


The motor starter box is like new


The work on these brackets for the fence is absolutely terrible, I would have done better working on the tail gate of my pick up.



The bolts supplies to instal the rear fence are too small to screw in the existing threads. They are supplies with nuts but there is no way to reach behind to put the nuts. I have some fine thread SAE cap-screws but the threads in the table are no SAE, I have no idea what they are. I finally managed to get some metric bolts to start and to screw in.

I wish the rails were 6 to 8” longer on the left. This saw is right tilt which mean that I shall use the fence on the left side of the blade for 45 degrees and the fence is just too short, in fact just for that I am thinking about getting another one.


The saw with the new fence on.

Something is very intriguing about this saw: it was build 25 years ago yet the paint is without blemishes or scratches, there is no sign of wear on the handles, the inside is of the saw is extremely clean and the belts are like new.
It seems to me that this saw, has been very little used in 25 years.

-- Bert

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1567 posts in 888 days


#6 posted 05-12-2012 11:17 PM

Bert,
Perhaps I’m too late, but here’s 2 cents worth. I have a right tilt Delta Unisaw also that I have restored. Mine however came with the original Delta fence which is a mighty iron casting machined on both sides for an L shaped aluminum extrusion. This arrangement is pretty handy for switching sides. You will see more about my saw on my blog when I post some ideas about precision fence settings.
I wish I could remember where, but I read several reviews of the riving setup by Bork and they were sharply negative. When I looked at what he did, I couldn’t see the problem myself. They might have been reacting to the fact that you have to sign a disclaimer to purchase one. Just a heads up.
You have a FINE saw there.
Dan

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#7 posted 05-12-2012 11:24 PM

Thanks Dan.
Right here on Lumberjocks we have reviews for the Bork riving knife and there are good:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/brand/456.
Thanks

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#8 posted 05-12-2012 11:50 PM

Because it does not fit properly I have decided to return the fence.
I could get to fit by re-drilling the holes, but then I would also have to replace the tape.
I should not have to do that.

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#9 posted 05-14-2012 10:10 AM

I could not get the new paddle switch to work, a wiring issue.
I received the idea to mount the new switch’s paddle to the original switch, it works just fine:

( just “for look”, I shall paint the wood black)

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#10 posted 05-14-2012 10:19 AM

After “agonizing” about spending too much money for a fence, at 2:00am yesterday, I finally ordered the The SHopFox Classic Fence w/ 7’ Rails & Legs.
It should be here later this week.
I anticipate having to cut the rails shorter to save space in my shop but the longer rails will allow me to have a good ripping capacity on the left side of the blade ( i have an extension on the left side of the table) as well as on the right side of it.
I also ordered an additional cursor to install for the left side of the fence when cutting on left side of the blade.(this is one of the features which decided me to buy this fence, most fence do not offer the possibility)

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#11 posted 05-14-2012 08:15 PM

This afternoon I installed the switch with the paddle modification, it works perfect. I also checked the blade alignment, it was very close and I got it a little bit better.
While typing this I just received the plastic cover to put above the motor.
There is a low frequency vibration when the saw is running, because of that I shall replace the V-belts to see if that would take care of that.

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#12 posted 05-16-2012 10:41 AM

Last night was kind of disappointing as I decided the replace the V-Belts to get ride of the low frequency rumble/vibration.
I read in the morning on Lumberjocks how much people like the twist ling belts from HF but I ended up going to Grainger with my old belts and, after waiting in for 20 minutes, I asked them them new ones, cogged as I read somewhere that they are better,even if almost twice the price, for saw application. I requested gates belts bu they were not available, only Dayton were available and only three of them.The counter guy had a time finding a match with the numbers on the belts
(a Caterpilar number!) I suggested that the just measure them, what he did and he came back with belts obviously way to short. So he went to get longer ones, I told him that they still looked to short. He insisted that they would stretch and fit. I took them home, the “almost ” fit but they were too still too short , so I drove back to Grainger. Waited in line another 20 minutes or so until a young lady seeing my obvious impatience offered to help me. I asked for 1 inch longer belts, unfortunately they still are too short. Do not tell me that if I had bought the HF ones to start with, I would not have this issue. I KNOW IT.

The new covers for the motor is a full 3/8” thick, compare with the flimsy 1/8” of so on the R4511, this is a massive cover.
After building the router table and cabinet on the R4511, I could no longer open the motor cover , so I modified it as to slide ti open as a vertical drawer.
It words fine.
Even if I should have more room on this saw because of the longer rails, I decided to mount the motor cover in the same way, so I build out of oak some rail to do that.
When I bought the cover on E-bay I could have a replacement door with the cover for the same price so I bought both.
I now have decided to use this door on the saw, instead of the original one, as the louvers are fake, not open and that will help me to keep the dust inside the cabinet.

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#13 posted 05-16-2012 01:26 PM

I have been thinking about the dust collection in this cabinet; how to do it and what to use to do it.
I want a very smooth materiel to make it so that the the dust will slide off ti easily.
I was thinking about HDPE or similar,it can be machined easily and ti can be welded together,but I have nothing to weld it.
I have been thing about melamine. I have some left over on 3/4” particle and on 1/4” MDF. 3/4” is too thick and I hate to work with MDF.
This morning I was thinking about using HVAC duct.
They can be bought very cheap in big box stores, they comes in may different sizes, the surface is smooth and it can be easily cut , formed and pop riveted.
I think that is is the way I am going to go.

-- Bert

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1567 posts in 888 days


#14 posted 05-16-2012 11:46 PM

Bert, on my Unisaw I found a piece of straight U channel already bolted to the saw. It extends all the way to the underside of the table and hangs down about to the bottom of the blade. It seems to deflect all the under table particles downward in a very focused pattern. So, I just bolted the end of my vacuum hose to the bottom of this channel and there is very little if any dust escaping underneath. In fact the arrangement is so good that I once forgot to hook up the other end of the short hose to the vacuum, and there was a neat little pile of dust on the floor at the end of the hose.
The U channel moves with the blade tilt so the only thing to worry about is the clearance for the hose at 45 degrees.
Dan

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4329 posts in 1703 days


#15 posted 05-16-2012 11:48 PM

Dan , could you send me a picture?
Thanks

-- Bert

showing 1 through 15 of 63 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase