The top, I decided to assemble this with tongue and groove joinery, I have a Stanley 48, this is the plane that started the madness.it has 2 cutters, and a pivoting fence. With the fence one direction it cuts a groove, swing it 180 degrees and it cuts the tongue. The plane will center on 7/8” thicknessed wood, but one tip… make a decision, either the fence is always on the face of the peice or the back, and stick with it. If you flip back and forth, it will cause the face of your work to be real bumpy. This is one of the mistakes I did not make, but will look forward to making it in the future ( I will, its in my nature ).
Another lesson with this plane, start close to the end you want to finish at, and take short strokes, working back until you can make a full length run, it is just easier.
Also I found that my front hand was best used to hold the fence against the face, and my thumb just sort of cupped the front knob
So the issue is this plane ( from ebay) came without any irons (blades), so I made my own from an old transition plane that had no handles, so it donated its iron. These irons need to be precise to work, I spent the better part of the day getting things relatively close, definately not perfect, but very close. So there was some final fitment work to be done. I used my Stanley 93 shoulder plane for this task.
So now it is time to clamp it up, yes dry assemble first, then glue.
Glue is dry now, it is time to trim it up, keeping 1 edge as my reference for all tasks, like squaring, and what not. Also I will take my Jack Plane this one is an old Bailey that has a portion of its side broken off, I have kind of turned it into a scrub plane by putting a radius on the iron, and opened the mouth. This I will use to bring the table top down to fairly flat ( technical term). Then, I use another No 5 the I bought from Grizzley for $30 or so, set much more fine, almost like a smoother, to smooth the surface. Then on to the Stanley number 4, these planes did not like the knots in the wood, but if they are set fine enough it is not to bad.
So I want to profile the edge, and I was thinking a round over with a bead would be nice. Yes it still would be nice. I used my Stanley 45 and I made a round over with a bead profile blade for this, I used my grinder ( it is elcectric, but was not used to harm any wood) a file and a slipstone and it is really sharp. Knowing that endgrain can be difficlt to deal with, I started there.
This is how it turned out.
This is how I fixed it.
So maybe, just a nice chamfer, geuss I should use my new Christmas present… the Veritas skew block plane, and my marking gauge.
So now I should rip off the front and back edges, I left them in case there was chipout from profiling the endgrain. I had to plan ahead, cause it would not be difficult for me to end up with a table for a doll house.
Now I repeat the edge treatment, rough #5, smooth #5, then check the edge for square, check the corners for square. and back to the skew block and marking gauge
Thats enough for tonight, tomorrow will be the apron, I wanted to do that last, because I really wasn’t sure how big the table top was going to end up being. The question is…. will I find a legitimate use for the #45? I already know the answer.
Thanks for checking it out.
-- Even a broken clock is right twice a day, unless, it moves at half speed like ....-As the Saw Turns