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Miter/Workbench Station #1: The Beginning

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Blog entry by alexbarlage posted 01-27-2010 06:25 PM 4361 reads 3 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Miter Saw Station Lumber
Miter Saw / Workbench in stock lumber stage

Miter Saw Station Base
Framed base of bench, 5/8” OSB, 2×4 frame 16” O.C

Miter Saw Station Base W.Sacrificial Top
Base with 1/8” sacrificial hardboard on top. I need some opinions on the hardboard fastening, can’t decided which route to go.

Should I use fasteners or adhesive? I’m leaning towards the adhesive, but then once you pick that, you then have a broad spectrum of types of adhesive. What has everyone else used in this application? I plan on ruining the top at some point, and it will get replaced, probably once a year.

Spray Adhesive, contact cement, double sided tape?

-- The trouble with doing something right the first time is that nobody appreciates how difficult it was.



10 comments so far

View Raspar's profile

Raspar

246 posts in 1870 days


#1 posted 01-27-2010 06:45 PM

Depends if you want to be able to change this out. I would suggest countersunk screws, if you want o be able to change it. Otherwise if perm i would go with contact cement. Just a couple of options, I am sure others will have more. Nice start though.

-- Have thy tools ready. God will find thee work.

View alexbarlage's profile

alexbarlage

41 posts in 1764 days


#2 posted 01-27-2010 06:52 PM

I think with countersunk screws there would have to be an army of them to get the hardboard perfectly flat and secure. I’m also a perfectionist, so I would have to layout the location of every screw. (Overall Size is 24” x 84”) – The perfect depth for a 12” sliding compound miter saw.

-- The trouble with doing something right the first time is that nobody appreciates how difficult it was.

View Viking's profile

Viking

857 posts in 1917 days


#3 posted 01-27-2010 06:58 PM

Alex;

If you want to easily change the top out later use some 2 sided carpet tape, if not you might try Liquid Nails in caulking tubes.

Good Luck!

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View Derek Lyons's profile

Derek Lyons

584 posts in 2290 days


#4 posted 01-27-2010 07:51 PM

If you’re planning on replacing it at some undetermined time in the future – double sided tape seems to be the ‘standard’ solution and one I can’t see any drawbacks to.

-- Derek, Bremerton WA --

View alexbarlage's profile

alexbarlage

41 posts in 1764 days


#5 posted 01-27-2010 08:03 PM

I turned to the Wood Whisperer, he is using a similar style on his torsion box. He also screwed it down and coated it with a polyurethane, which I didn’t even consider. Great inspiration to finish this guy up.

-- The trouble with doing something right the first time is that nobody appreciates how difficult it was.

View mnguy's profile

mnguy

162 posts in 2120 days


#6 posted 01-27-2010 08:42 PM

I’d suggest double sided tape plus a few screws just in case it gets bumped from the side – the tape might not hold well against those kinds of shear forces. Brass screws, just in case you use a plane or a chisel on the top.

As for just screws, if you started in the middle and worked your way out, I don’t think you’d need a lot of them.

I used boiled linseed oil on my tops like this – I don’t remember why now, but it also works well.

View FirehouseWoodworking's profile

FirehouseWoodworking

632 posts in 1995 days


#7 posted 01-27-2010 10:35 PM

Depending on how badly you plan on destroying the hardboard top, how about considering a quick rough sanding and gluing the next layer right on over the old one?

I have a bench that I have done this. It’s four layers thick now and with each layer added, it became that much stiffer and it seems, more solid. I’ve used contact cement and then a pattern cutting bit to make it even on the edges.

Just another thought for your consideration.

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

View kosta's profile

kosta

946 posts in 2077 days


#8 posted 01-28-2010 01:47 AM

if your using hardboard it takes a lot of screws lined up with each other because the hardboard will bend as you screw each screw in so I was say spray adhesive or contact cement

-- kosta Virginia Beach, VA http://www.kostasworkshop.blogspot.com/

View Karson's profile

Karson

34902 posts in 3123 days


#9 posted 01-31-2010 08:12 PM

I wouldn’t use any kind of glue, because taking the top off will also pull apart your ply under it. I’d go with screws.

But when I built a workbench. I put a lip on the edge and used 3/4 MDF. The lip holds it in place and the mds just sits there. I can pick it up and turn it over or replace it at will.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112525 posts in 2299 days


#10 posted 01-31-2010 08:16 PM

Looks like a good start . I would nail the sub base and pin nail the top for an easy change out when the top gets beat up.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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