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My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #8

a1Jim — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 05:43:07 GMT

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #8

Well In number 1 – 8 we made the large circler pattern and four 20×20’ patterns that make all the separate parts of the edge details
For our pie crust table.
Before we use this patterns to make our table we need to make sure all of our patterns are producing even edge details so when make our table we don’t have to hand carve the edge to make it come out properly.
Some things we have to keep in mind before starting our table top.
We still screw our patterns down but the screws should not go into the table top more than 3/8” so that we done have to deal with the holes they make after the center is routed out.
Make sure your patterns are free from saw dust or any other debris that would keep them from screwing down evenly.
After routing each section to make sure the detail is crisp and even each and every time.

The way we start our table top is the exact same way we started our large circular pattern in #1-#3 this will complete the rounding of our table top.

A caution here, because we are routing in wood and not melamine
We need to route in steps instead of in one pass and we need to be extra careful when the grain runs parallel with our edge details.

So at this point we have routed our outside edge being very careful that it has routed evenly and at equal depth all the way around.
Now we have to route the center section of our table to an equal depth with the depth as our last patterns depth.
There is more than one way to do this but the way I did this was to use the last pattern #4 to route away from the edge by using the side of this pattern until it was not possible to use it any more. After that I used small blocks of wood stuck to the bottom of the routers outer edge to continue to remove the center of the table top.

As you proceed you need to clear away the shavings so not to interfere with the process.

When you reach the center you need to saw of the dowel

In #9 we will proceed with cleaning the edges and center of our table top.

Link to Charles Neil’s The Magic of Routers
Were I got this whole process from.

Links to my pie crust table blogs

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/dvdplayer.php?id=61

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #7

a1Jim — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 00:29:58 GMT

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #7

In #6 we started routing with a plunge round of bit to start our
Pie crust detail. Now were are ready for our 3rd 20×20”
Pattern. Similar to the #2 pattern the 3rd pattern has to be set back using the same technique as before. This time because of the size bearing and router bit I set the pattern
Back 1 ¼” from the #3 pattern. After the same process of smoothing and trial and error I set the newest pattern on the out side edge lines and screw the pattern down . This time
I’m using a ½ round nose router bit with a 1 1/8” bearing.

This #3 pattern will be cutting this part of the pie crust detail.

The next step is to make #4 pattern for the bottom cut of the detail this time it is set back 1 1/8” and because of the length of the router bit it was necessary to make my pattern ½ “ thicker by adding a ½” piece of plywood to the top.

This is the bottom cut 1 1/8” router bit.

This is the area of the detail The #4 pattern will cut.

As with all of the previous 20×20” patterns this ones center line is placed on the center mark on the edge and screwed down before routing begins.

The next installment #8 will have a short review and begin with the use of our jigs and patterns on our actual table.

Link to Charles Neil’s The Magic of Routers
Were I got this whole process from.

Links to my pie crust table blogs

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/dvdplayer.php?id=61

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #6

a1Jim — Sat, 18 Jul 2009 00:46:07 GMT

MY 1ST PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #6

Were we left of in #5 is that we finished our second jig
For the next part of our pattern. At this point you should know that are large circle pattern has more than on purpose it is used to fine tune our width and depth of cut for our smaller 20×20” patterns so they can be used on the actual table top. So this is the time for our second sequince of router cuts ,we use a ¼”plunge roundover over bit with a1/4” bit. To make a step down around our pie crust table outside edge detail

The bit looks like this
and the detail we are cutting is right here

If you remember we cut the second pattern back an inch . This can very depending on the type of router bit and it’s bearing we use .so this is ware we have to experiment with the depth of cut and if our pattern is to close to the outside edge or to far away. If it’s to close to the out side edge we have to take more off our pattern or change the size of the bearing and if we are to far away you can increase the size of the bearing or try an add to your pattern(pretty tough) or make another pattern. If you take your time planning it out hopefully you won’t have to make another pattern but if you do you can use this one for the next pattern we need to make.
When your #2 pattern is ready you place it on the same lines you made to start an screw it down. The next thing to do is drill some holes in the main pattern your routing, for you router bit to start in so you don’t have to do a plunge cut.
So here’s how it works

A caution here since this is a trial and error process you must minimize how big of area you test the dept of and width of your cuts on your main pattern when changing of bits and bearings and adjustments of the small patterns or you will run out off your main pattern to test. Don’t ask how I now this.

In #7 we will move on two the 3rd pattern

Link to Charles Neil “The Magic of Routers
were I got this whole process from

Links to my pie crust table blogs

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/dvdplayer.php?id=61

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #5

a1Jim — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 21:16:27 GMT

My 1st pie crust tilt top table #5

Were we left off in #4 was we had drawn out the pattern for our pie crust outside edge . after that we are back at the band saw or you can use a jig saw and cut out the pattern we made. This is a very important part of the process so you have to take the time to make the outside edge as perfect as possible. If you have a spindle sander it speeds things along ,if not you can use rasp, files, sanding drum kits (the kind you can put in your drill press or drill any thing that will leave the out side edge smooth and flawless.

Here’s my pattern again

Now that we have our pattern made it’s time to put it to use.
Remember those marks we made on the edge on ever other line of the large circle pattern this is were they come into play.

You take you pattern and use it’s center line and place it on those lines one at a time you route your outside pattern using a top bearing flush cut router bit this time and making sure you have screwed the
Top pattern down with 2 screws

Here’s a top bearing flush cut router bit

Here’s how the routing goes

After you have smoothed the out side edge an eliminated any defects
It’s time for the second 20×20” you make copy of the first pattern this is done buy placing the first pattern over the second one and using a flush cut router similar to what you did on the first pattern to make it round It is necessary to move the pattern back on the second piece of melamine . you would think that you just move the hole so you can continue but the pattern changes as it goes towards the center so you have to move it, You now remove about 1” from the front of the newest pattern This may very depending on what router bit your using for the second part of our pie crust pattern.
Removing the 1” or ? is done buy using a rabbiting bit and trimming off a ½” twice.
Such an easy way to trim the front to size as stupid as that sounds. .Thanks you Charles.

If I may add here If I had to fugue this out it might have taken a dozen tries to first figure that the pattern changed and then

Here’s a what the second pattern looks like over the large round main test pattern

In #6 we will start are routing with are second pattern

Link to Charles Neil “The Magic of Routers
were I got this whole process from

Links to my pie crust table blogs

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/dvdplayer.php?id=61

My 1st PIECRUST TILT TOP TABLE #4

a1Jim — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:03:25 GMT

My 1st pie crust tilt top table #4

In #3 we rounded our melamine and placed a mark on the edge of every other line. One thing I didn’t make clear is that the circle we cut needs to be smooth and free of defects. A way Charles Neil (remember this is his process I followed) suggest is to use body filled on any defects.
The next step is to make a group of melamine pieces 20”x20” and place a hole the size of your dowel about 2” in, in the center of all of the these pieces . You need 4 but I made 6 for back ups.
You take your 1st 20×20” piece of melamine and place it on the dowel
Through the hole you drilled In the center of your circle so that it moves freely but not real loose. Now you mark the shape of the circle on the 20×20” piece so that buy just tracing the big circles shape on the bottom. Then band saw close but not to the line approximately 1/8” away from the line or so. Then place the band sawed piece back on the circle over the dowel. Install a couple of screws to hold it in place back far enough so the router won’t bump into the screw head. The next step is to use a bottom bearing flush cut router bit and trim the 20×20” piece flush with the main circle with your router.

Here’s a bottom bearing flush cut router bit.

Here’s what the first pattern looks like when you’ve finished

The next step is to draw out the pie crust pattern on your newly created 20×20” with the round shape. I didn’t have a pattern for this so I looked at Charles table and Garyk’s table and drew it out until it looked good to me. It starts by dividing the 20×20 “ in half running from the dowel to the front. And thin using a compass to draw the arches

Here’s what mine looked like

In #5 we will be doing some routing on the main circle pattern

Link to Charles Neil “The Magic of Routers
were I got this whole process from

Links to my pie crust table blogs