Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
Now I’m at the point where it’s time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I’ve used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼” away from each corner of the drawer openings.
Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16” thick.
After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, “sneaking up on it.” Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
In case you’re not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front’s cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it’s centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
Now I’m ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼” marks made earlier
and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
cleaning any excess glue as I go. It’s important to make sure the drawer front hasn’t moved and that it’s been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil’s subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, “Mastering Woodworking” webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don’t miss out.
This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
33 comments so far
cwdance1
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1139 posts in 1455 days
#1 posted 1040 days ago
Sure wish I could do work like that, maybe some day.
patron
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12166 posts in 1537 days
#2 posted 1040 days ago
well done once again , jim .
well illustrated too .
that’s the thing to remember ,
lots of small steps ,
lead up to the final project .
not big jumps ,
that can lead to mistakes ,
or under planing .
-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle
reggiek
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2236 posts in 1466 days
#3 posted 1040 days ago
Wow…turning out great…I look forward to each post and the pics really make things go together. Great job on the lowboy and great job on documenting the steps you are taking….they are invaluable to any level woodworker…and it is very fun to watch your progress.
-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!
Delta356
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450 posts in 1050 days
#4 posted 1040 days ago
It’s just amazing!!!! WOW….................................................................................
a1Jim
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89011 posts in 1773 days
#5 posted 1040 days ago
Hey CWdance that’s what’s it all about is a challenge Charles takes if through it step by step and even tell you what not to do.
Right on David when you do it in little steps before know it each step is done and you have it done. As easy as howling at the moon LOL
Thanks reggie sometimes you spend a lot of time putting these things together and wonder if folks are really interested.
Thanks so much Michael Delta356
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
Jordan
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1336 posts in 1321 days
#6 posted 1040 days ago
Gee, it’s great to follow along – I’ve been doing exactly the same things as you, LOL!
After seeing the front, you sure have come a long way!
-- http://www.jordanstraker.com
a1Jim
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89011 posts in 1773 days
#7 posted 1040 days ago
Thanks for checking it out Jordon I’m enjoying your blog also.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
RonPeters
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709 posts in 1077 days
#8 posted 1040 days ago
Curious about cleaning the excess glue. It smears if I clean it after it oozes and if I wait, it’s too hard. Is there a trick to it? A wet rag?
Ahem, I like your legs!
-- “Once more unto the breach, dear friends...” Henry V - Act III, Scene I
Joe Lyddon
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6473 posts in 2249 days
#9 posted 1040 days ago
You sure make it look SIMPLE! :) ;D
Nice work!
-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"
a1Jim
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89011 posts in 1773 days
#10 posted 1040 days ago
Thanks Ron and Joe
Ron I use a sponge that’s just barley damp and also a pointed stick a little smaller than a carpenters pencil
that has kind of a flat point to clean out glue in tight spaces. It’s best to let the glue get firm but not hard to use that tool
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#11 posted 1040 days ago
Hi Jim,
Yes, you sure make it look simple, but still I’m impressed, and can see years of working hands behind the simplicity.
Thank you for sharing this with us,
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
Eric_S
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1522 posts in 1392 days
#12 posted 1040 days ago
Great post Jim. I’m really enjoying following along with your progress ad techniques being used.
You confused me at first with saying ”...front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made.” Huh, two drawer fronts? But at the end it all makes sense. Is this just so its easier and quicker than doing a real half blind? Anyways, it’s looking great!!!
-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN
BillyJ
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622 posts in 1399 days
#13 posted 1040 days ago
Very nice work Jim. It is really turning out to be a good looking lowboy. Thanks for taking so many pics – I love the detail you have put into this blog. Keep ‘em coming.
-- I've never seen a tree that I wouldn't like to repurpose into a project. I love the smell of wood in the morning - it smells like victory.
Eagle1
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2042 posts in 1261 days
#14 posted 1040 days ago
It’s looking good Jim..
-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened
Dennis Fletcher
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455 posts in 1251 days
#15 posted 1040 days ago
This is a great project. I’ve been following with great interest. If I had the extra funds, Charles would have another subscriber, not to mention the amount of money I would put out for his products. Oh well, one day.
-- http://www.ahomespecialist.net, Making design and application one. †
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