Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
I’m now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the “Mastering Woodworking “ website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
Okay, so now the pattern’s printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I’d already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
After those cuts are made, I measure ¼” on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
After that, I’m back at the band saw and cut these ¼” pieces off of the tenon, leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I’m ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs. A point to make here is that it’s important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it’s very thin… only about 1 1/8”.
Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards’ mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8” up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
it’s time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don’t break the scroll board at its weak point.
The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
Remember, the techniques I’ve gathered are from Charles Neil’s subscription online webisode, “Mastering Woodworking”.
Signing up for Charles, “Mastering Woodworking” webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
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