Kitchen Cabinets #2: The wood is in - yippie

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Blog entry by Zuki posted 07-25-2007 12:38 AM 1230 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Prologue Part 2 of Kitchen Cabinets series Part 3: I hate snipe »

Finally !!!!

2 weeks have stretched into 4 . . . but the wood is finally in. Im going to take a peek at it tomorrow and pay the guy. Hopefully it will be delivered tomorrow as well.

I cut down from the initial 500bf to 100bf as I wanted to play with some Poplar first. This is the first time I have purchased wood outside of the big box stores and I do not want to get to stressed out with having too much wood kicking around. DW also has a number of smaller peojects that she wants me to build.

A question for you foks . . . should I plain and joint all the wood to 3/4 thickness immediately or just plain and joint for each project?

How long should I leave the wood in my shop before I start making dust?

-- BLOG -

6 comments so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4010 posts in 3481 days

#1 posted 07-25-2007 03:52 AM


First, questions.
Is it 4/4 lumber, is it S22 (sanded 2 sides, ie. smooth), or skip planed (spots are smooth but some planer marks).
I think the 3 weeks in the shop stored flat or stickered flat should more than suffice for the acclimatization process. Rather than trying to joint and plane the whole length of the boards, I usually cut to oversize about 6 inches beyond the final length, and maybe a quarter inch wider than final width (the length depends on the amount of snipe your planer leaves on the boards. Then thickness initially to an eighth over 3/4. The surfacing will likely release some stresses in the wood. So the initial milling should leave extra to be dealt with after 1-2 days. I would only do what need be done, rather than work the whole batch at once. I’m a small box guy, and so I think you should wait to check the consensus of more experienced cabinet guys, but those rules seem to work for me across the range of my experience over the last 10 years or so,

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View WayneC's profile


12642 posts in 3515 days

#2 posted 07-25-2007 03:57 AM

I agree with Douglas. Also, if your doing short pieces and there is any cupping or bowing you will need to take off less wood to resolve the issue.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Karson's profile


35032 posts in 3818 days

#3 posted 07-25-2007 04:05 AM

I agree with Douglas. You never know what thickness you need until you have the project plans in your hand.

Some you may need to re-saw and you’d want all the thickness you can get.

Let it collect dust in your shop until you have the project in hand.

I always cut oversize. When I make my cut-list I write down the first cut size and final cut size. You might find that you can’t get the first cut size if you are trying to fit pieces into a board, but you can get larger than the final cut size.

I also use price stickers that I get at Staples (Neon Colors) and put the part number or letter and final cut size on it so when you get to the saw you have the actual measurement that you need. I also only use stickers on the back. If you are using a router table you amost always have the face down. So the sticker should always be visable. Some sides of the board are better than others so check them over and mark the back or inside of the part.

If that part need other milling like a rabbit etc I’ll also put that on the sticker or maybe a different color sticker. Neon red and neon green and I’ll point an arrow to the sides needing milling. Nothing is worse that cutting milling on the wrong side or on both sides when you don’t need it.

The stickers give me the final chance to get it right.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4010 posts in 3481 days

#4 posted 07-25-2007 04:36 AM

Before I get around to sanding after assembly, there’s carpenter’s triangles, arrows, tic marks on matching edges. Sometimes I probably need a “hey dummy, not this edge/face” sticker.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Zuki's profile


1404 posts in 3494 days

#5 posted 07-25-2007 11:30 PM

Yep its D2S and 4/4 (actually 15/16). I looked at it today and is being delivered tomorrow. Most of it is approx 6-8” wide. There was one piece I wanted in particular that wa 16 1/4 wide. What a beautiful looking board. Will probably cup like heck . . .

OMG . . . THREE WEEKS . . . THREE WEEKS. How could I possibly stand looking at this beautiful wood for three weeks. I can just see myself . . . coveralls on, sitting on my stool with an pencil behind my ear and a tape measure in hand staring at the wood on the floor.

I agree . . . planing and jointing only what I need.

karson – I like the sticker idea. Gonna have to visit staples.

I actually have a project (“suggested” by Da Wife) that I need to start soon. She just walked in and read this post and said she needs the desk yesterday. Oh my . . . .

-- BLOG -

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4010 posts in 3481 days

#6 posted 07-26-2007 10:58 AM

Zuki, you might have to whack off just a tiny bit for some small projects (pen boxes?), that wouldn’t leave much potential for cupping, bowing and twisting.

I can see you on that stool sitting becalmed with the clock ticking very slowly… like some horror in a “Twilight Zone” episode. <shivering>

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

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