I have read many of the comments on tablesaws/cabinet saws.
I still am using my ancient Craftsman that I bought from my father.
I have upgraded the pulleys to give a higher blade speed along with replacing the belt with the link belt.
I enjoy much smoother operation and cutting power.
I use a Forrest WWII thin kerf blade, which works well.
I found a Delta T2 fence on the bargain table at Woodcraft, and fitted it to my saw. I enjoy the ability to
read from the tape. I have set the fence at 1/32 runout at the rear. This appears to help in ripping.
I installed a switch on the left side with the paddle shutoff.
Once the motor wouldn’t run. A friend showed me that I needed to blow out the sawdust and clean out the motor. It started right up.
I have added a Benchdog router table to the right side. it is supposed to be designed for the left side, but interferes with the table saw operation when running jobs requiring both the saw and router.
I have ripped some heavy stock. I know this saw won’t do the heavy stuff regularly, but occasionally I get along well. I used for an outfeed table. When adjusted to the exact height of the saw table, makes and excellent outfeed table.
I have looked at many table saws. I like the Laguna Platinum saw, which I have read is made in the same plant as the Grizzly. I can’t get excited about Grizzly since owning a Grizzly shaper once. It didn’t take long to sell it, and move up to a Delta, which is much smoother. The Grizzly had an annoying sound to it.
One feature I think was really great on the Laguna Platinum saw is the fence. It rides just above the table on a delrin or UHMW pad. There are fingers that come out over the guide rails at the t-square end of the fence to insure the smooth movement , and stay in smooth alignment.
Some have not liked Laguna’s service and dealing with them. I bought a Laguna 14” bandsaw and coudn’t be happier. I bought it at a show directly from Tjorbin Helshoi. I asked him what size bandsaw I should buy. He could have easily “upsold me”, but he recommended the Laguna 14. This is an Industrial quality saw. I have done 12” resaws on it with Cherry.
I have a Steel City 8” parallelogram jointer which I like, yet can’t get excited about their cabinet saws. When I tried out all the adjustments on new Delta Unisaw, I was impressed. Although expensive, it would be my choice if I move up from the ancient Craftsman. I like the extra distance between the blade and the rear of the table for getting better control of the infeed.
I believe the Jets are great saws. I have played with the PM2000 at a Woodcraft store and found the cranks and action disappointing along with the specs. The crank adjustment for bring the saw up on the casters was disappointing also.
I agree with the opinions on the Sawstop that it is a very well made saw. I have the feeling that given today’s mentality, there is a tendency to buy that saw and think you can’t get hurt. I do think my feelings are contradictory as I believe if the Sawstop can get shop classes back into the schools, so be it, as long as the point is gotten across that not all power tools have the Sawstop’s safety feature.
Some of the best advice I have listened to was from Scott Phillips when he was at the Woodcraft store in Grand Rapids Michigan. he said to bring the saw blade no more than a quarter inch above the wood.
I use a “Grip-Tite” magnetic featherboard. It has always worked well for me and is a reminder of where the blade is. I use a push board from Bench Dog. It has a handle and a heel that catches the rear of the board. It allows downward pressure on the board. I tilt it slightly towards the fence when pushing a board through.
These comments are from my experience. Others may think differently. That is one of the neat things about
woodworking. It allows us to be individuals. There is no one in woodworking that I can’t learn something from.
I have enjoyed all the comments and continue to learn from this forum.